Fixed broadhead tuning

Work2hunt

Veteran member
Mar 2, 2013
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St. Louis, MO
I've always shot mechanical broadheads and over the past 8 years or so I have half-heartedly tried to get a fixed broadhead to work for me. This year I made it my goal to actually select a fixed broadhead. I haven't had any problems with the Rage mechanicals I shoot and part of me says why fix what is broken.....especially, with the 15 or so deer I have killed with them but, I like the simplicity of a fixed broadhead.

Right now I am playing with a Slicktrick, Wasp, and Montec. Out to 45 yards the Slicktricks are flying true. But when I move out to 55 or 65 yds I am good left to right, but the arrow drops 4-5 inches. The Montec is all over the place. The Wasp seems to be good up and down, but is always right 6-8 inches, except for one arrow which seems to fly true.

I'm a bit stumped. What are your suggestions or tips?
 
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velvetfvr

Veteran member
May 6, 2012
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Nv
You need to get your bow properly tuned.

First step, make sure the DL is correct for YOU.

2nd, make sure your grip is correct. Knuckles of bow hand should be at a 45* angle off the grip with them really lookin like this /. DONT grip grip the bow, you really want a relaxed grip like this
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438625941.390118.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438625982.988694.jpg

Third. Check the bows ata and brace height measurements. Make sure they are close, most of the time they are gonna be a touch off, but make sure they are close.

4, check the bows poundage, that's usually a result of the ata. If that's correct poundage should be good.

5, make sure the cams are both in time and synced up. If it's a hybrid cam system make sure they hit the same time or the head just touching a hair before the bottom

Single cam if the ata and brace are right, cam should be rotating over in the designed rotation from the engineers.

Binary, hit at the same exact time.

6, set center shot. Set arrow level through the Berger hole, or just a touch of Nock high. But usually not to much on any now.

7, set the rest with the arrow so the center of the arrow is 3/4" or 13/16" away from the riser.

8, check the bows top cam lean. On hybrids I usually set a little pre lean to lean the cam a touch left utilizing the yokes.

9, now you need to make sure your arrows are properly spine indexed. If they are a stiffer spine then recommended, that's fine. You CANT be weak.

Usually if someone shoots 70-60lbs I'd go 300 or 340 spine. 60-50 probably 330-400 spine. That way your always in the right range or a little stiff.

10, get 1 fletched arrow with a field point, and 1 arrow with a field point with no fletchings. That's a bare shaft. Shoot the bow at 10 yards. See if they hit the same point and the bare shaft is entering the target perfectly straight. If not that means you probably either need to mess with the DL, grip, or the arrow rest

11, once bare shafts hit together with field points at 10 yards, go back to 20 yards. If they hit together, with the bare shaft directly straight in the target, your bow is properly tuned.

******note of your arrows aren't fletched with the stiffest part of the arrow on top, where the cock vane goes you may also experience some arrow flight problems. Best way to fix this is strip all the arrows vanes off, then shoot all bare shafts through paper rotating the nock in the arrow until you get a perfect bullet hole for every arrow.

Also, you have to admit to yourself your DL is long or short if you can't yoke tune, move the rest or change grip to get the bare shafts to hit together. The right DL is key to optimal shooting and accuracy, and optimal arrow flight.

If you get bare shafts together with fletched at 20 yards, you should pretty much be able to shoot any broadhead on your arrow accurately, with the poi as fletched.
 

Work2hunt

Veteran member
Mar 2, 2013
1,366
11
St. Louis, MO
You need to get your bow properly tuned.

If you get bare shafts together with fletched at 20 yards, you should pretty much be able to shoot any broadhead on your arrow accurately, with the poi as fletched.
I consider my bow tuned well and have others besides myself check it out. I've shot to 35 yds with bare shafts and grouped to a 1" group.......that is my issue. When I extend the slick tricks beyond 45 yards they drop more than I would expect but at least are consistent. The other broadheads I have tried shoot right or are random all over the place.
 

velvetfvr

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May 6, 2012
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I consider my bow tuned well and have others besides myself check it out. I've shot to 35 yds with bare shafts and grouped to a 1" group.......that is my issue. When I extend the slick tricks beyond 45 yards they drop more than I would expect but at least are consistent. The other broadheads I have tried shoot right or are random all over the place.
They shouldn't be droppin all of a sudden. How many shots have you shot until you started longer range?

If your bare shafts are right there with fletched to 35 I'd say it's more of a consistency issue for sure. Bows in tune to do that. I'd wait and on the next day you shoot, go immediately to say 60 yards with broadheads as your first couple shots when your completely fresh.
 

Work2hunt

Veteran member
Mar 2, 2013
1,366
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St. Louis, MO
They shouldn't be droppin all of a sudden. How many shots have you shot until you started longer range?

If your bare shafts are right there with fletched to 35 I'd say it's more of a consistency issue for sure. Bows in tune to do that. I'd wait and on the next day you shoot, go immediately to say 60 yards with broadheads as your first couple shots when your completely fresh.
Now you understand the difficulty behind my question....I can alternate between broad head and field tip, I can shoot tips through a blind trial, I can shoot broad heads 1st or I can shoot them last all with the same results...the slick tricks fall when I get past 45 yes.
 

ando_31

Active Member
Sep 14, 2012
402
0
ND
Now you understand the difficulty behind my question....I can alternate between broad head and field tip, I can shoot tips through a blind trial, I can shoot broad heads 1st or I can shoot them last all with the same results...the slick tricks fall when I get past 45 yes.
I had a similar problem with montecs. When I got to the 40+ yard mark the arrows were all flying low and right. Anything less than 40 I was busting nocks. I wish this was a post with the answer....but its not....its more of a moral support post. I didn't have the time to figure it out and went back to shooting rage mechanicals.
 

Work2hunt

Veteran member
Mar 2, 2013
1,366
11
St. Louis, MO
I had a similar problem with montecs. When I got to the 40+ yard mark the arrows were all flying low and right. Anything less than 40 I was busting nocks. I wish this was a post with the answer....but its not....its more of a moral support post. I didn't have the time to figure it out and went back to shooting rage mechanicals.
I'm starting to think I am running out of time for this year too. I might have to put this on the list for next year.
 

tdcour

Veteran member
Feb 28, 2013
1,100
26
Central Kansas
What are you shooting for fletchings? I noticed that when I put a 3 degree helical my bhs flew much better than straight or offset.

Not to change the subject, but I can shoot any of my fixed broadheads (4 different kinds) and hit exactly the same spot with any of them which is also the same spot as my fps... out to 70. I've noticed now that my arrows are dropping pretty quickly beyond 70 and hitting right (field points). I'm attributing that to form, so thats what I'm working on. Basically, I feel your pain, but stick to it. ONce you get the broadheads hitting where you want them to you will feel awesome... trust me on that. Make sure that you are concentrating super hard on not punching the trigger either. I have had that issue and I got "good enough" at punching it that I grouped well because I punched pretty much the same every time, but the arrows weren't hitting where they were supposed to.

Now that I have typed my rambling thoughts, I'd make sure your form is good, you aren't punching the trigger, and that you have a helical on the back end :)
 

Slugz

Veteran member
Oct 12, 2014
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Woodland Park, Colorado
I'd double check your arrows. If it's not the physical arrow, spline, fletching, balanced broadheads then it's your form and I'd keep plugging at it. I shoot FMJs/G5s and there is zero difference from field tip to broadheads. One thing I did notice though was the arrow had to be perfect. Helical and broadheads aligned. It makes sense. At these higher speeds it's like a missle. Aero inconsistency matters. It's quite opposite from what people think that higher speed will make up for aero issues. Just my 2 sense and what works for me.
 

Work2hunt

Veteran member
Mar 2, 2013
1,366
11
St. Louis, MO
I like the feedback on the arrow as that is something I haven't played with. I've been shooting Gold Tip 400s but last night I borrowed a few FMJ 400s from a buddy that shoots almost the same set-up as me. In both arrow cases these are factory arrows with the factory fletchings but the FMJ does have a light helix to the blazer vane. I shot a round with them and they appear to be a little better but I need more data points.
 

Hilltop

Veteran member
Feb 25, 2014
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Eastern Nebraska
Slugz,
How do you go about aligning your fletchings to your broadheads?
When looking down the length of the arrow, you want the blade to be basically in line with the fletching. I use a thin compression washer that allows me to tighten to the exact point to accomplish this. I actually line up my expandable blades with my fletching out of habit. Not sure this makes a ton of difference or not but have been doing it for 25 years.

You also want to spin test each arrow to ensure there is no wobble. With hidden inserts you will rarely have an issue but I still always check.

Another thing to consider is arrow balance. Are you shooting too heavy of a broadhead for your arrow causing it to nose down at longer ranges?
 

Slugz

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Oct 12, 2014
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Woodland Park, Colorado
Just like HT says or you can put a broadhead in then fletch it. I crank 3 degree helix on it with Blazers. Check your FOC and overall weight also. I'm by no means the smartest on here on the subject but I do feel the higher speed ( like over 330 ) and there is aero inconsistency / imbalance imparted when things are not perfect. It then gets highlighted vice covered up below roughly 290. I did a test once on a scale wind tunnel with my arrow with different fletching and helix/twist. I'm not a PhD in aerodynamics, just retired Navy flyer with some really really smart friends.😊
 
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25contender

Veteran member
Mar 20, 2013
1,638
90
After paper tuning I have always used walk back tuning for broad-heads and it works extremely well. Give it a try. Do the same as the video but for the second arrow shooting at the string use a broadhead then adjust the arrow rest as needed. Good short video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqFJf3X2WsA
 

Finsandtines

Very Active Member
Jun 16, 2015
585
177
Florida
This is helpful, thanks. I just started shooting trocars this week. Started off shooting low and right at 30+ and quickly realized after reading this thread it was me! As much as I hated to admit that......
 

Tikka06

New Member
Aug 6, 2015
4
0
Have shot the montec's in the past with no issues on accuracy, but they were kinda dull out of the box. Switched over to the slicktrick's last yr and they fly true and are SHARP. 100% agree on aligning the fletching with the blades.