Hey Montana, what rifle do you have? Do you know exactly what you're gunsmith did, I'm curious to see your results.
I'm sure they know their stuff but maybe I have a odd situation with my rifle? the new recommendation did not work
When you say it won't zero, is it windage or elevation? From you other posts I assume its elevation.
CC, yes it's the elevation. I'm not sure on the action, bought it about 4-5 years ago.
One of the problems generated by the trend to using high magnification scopes is the higher the magnification, the less adjustment in the scope. You mentioned that you had Talley rings and bases. That is who I would contact before launching into an expensive custom project. You may need a base (front or rear) that is a little thicker/thinner than normal. Normally, I would suggest a shim inside the ring, but with the vertical split Talley rings, that will not work. I have had no trouble with the Talley rings and bases on my .358 Win. pistol. They make a fine product, and I have found them to be very helpful at the SHOT Show. Give them a try.
Turning the elevation knob up raises the point of impact, turn it down to lower the point of impact, ie. if you are shooting high you should be adjusting the scope down not up.
If you still don't get enough correction, don't be afraid to double the shim thickness. Trial and error time now. Hope everything works for you.
I used a pop top inside the ring on my old 30/06 for years. For the past few years, I have been using the wide Dymo label tape inside the rings. It has adhesive on one side, so it won't slip. You can stack a couple of thicknesses if necessary, and it will not mar the finish on the scope. Sort of a poor man's Signature ring. If you need to shim under the base, you can use the metal strips, but a better choice is actual gunsmithing shims. These come in blue, or stainless, and in different sizes and thicknesses. They also have holes for the base screws, so they won't slip. Available from Brownell's Gunsmithing Supply.
