Scope ring problems

Muleys 24/7

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Jan 12, 2012
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The Golden State
The way I am understanding it you are shooting 3 1/2'' high with the scope down as far as it will adjust. Assuming the problem is not with the scope you would either have to bring the rear up or the front down to get your scope where you can sight it in.

Hard to tell in a pic but the rear looks lower then the front in relation to the bolt to me.
Sorry to be confusing but maybe I'm not explaining it correctly. The elevation knob on scope is maxed out upward, with reticle on the bull's-eye of target, the gun is still shooting 3 1/2 feet high. With that being said, I see it as the rear of the scope needs to drop in order to raise reticle to point of impact.


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Muleys 24/7

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Jan 12, 2012
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Are you sure the bases arent switched from front to back or something simple like that?
That's what I was thinking but the way they Are machined I don't believe they won't work the other way. The front of the receiver is a lot more circular than the rear


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libidilatimmy

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Oct 22, 2013
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Wyoming
Another question is if you're getting marks on the scope tube from the rings. This could show that the tube is being torqued when tightened down.
 

Muleys 24/7

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Let me ask You guys this, in order to effectively raise the line of sight/crosshairs would you Sand down the rear mount or shim the front? I'm not a big fan of shimming. Then I would have to lap after that process correct?


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Musket Man

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Jul 20, 2011
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Sorry to be confusing but maybe I'm not explaining it correctly. The elevation knob on scope is maxed out upward, with reticle on the bull's-eye of target, the gun is still shooting 3 1/2 feet high. With that being said, I see it as the rear of the scope needs to drop in order to raise reticle to point of impact.


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Yes you are correct. Sorry I was thinking about that backwards. It seems odd though that the rear had to be shimmed before and now the rear is to high. Before I did anything I would measure from the scope tube to the bolt and see if the front and rear are the same or not. If you dont have a caliper or anything to measure with get a piece of wire or even wood or a tooth pick or sometihng like that and cut it down till it fits between the scope and bolt in the front and then compare how it fits in the rear.
 

Muleys 24/7

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Jan 12, 2012
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Yes you are correct. Sorry I was thinking about that backwards. It seems odd though that the rear had to be shimmed before and now the rear is to high. Before I did anything I would measure from the scope tube to the bolt and see if the front and rear are the same or not. If you dont have a caliper or anything to measure with get a piece of wire or even wood or a tooth pick or sometihng like that and cut it down till it fits between the scope and bolt in the front and then compare how it fits in the rear.
Ok, yeah the reason why it's opposite is because they are two different brands of rings. First I had a problem one way and now I have it the other way. Bs, lol


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libidilatimmy

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Oct 22, 2013
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Let me ask You guys this, in order to effectively raise the line of sight/crosshairs would you Sand down the rear mount or shim the front? I'm not a big fan of shimming. Then I would have to lap after that process correct?


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If needed, I would shim way before machining. And then you would want to lap the rings because you just changed the center of alignment with the shim.
 

johnsd16

Active Member
Mar 16, 2014
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N Idaho
Another option just to try and figure out where the problem is, is to try that scope on a gun you know has rings on it that work, and also try another scope on this gun/ring setup. Of course you want to make sure the current gun/rings aren't going to ruin a scope you put in them. The front needs to come up and/or back needs to go down. So you've turned the scope elevation turret as far in the "down" direction as you can go right? I agree with not liking the idea of shimming and home machining of base parts is probably not the best idea unless you do that kind of work. If this was a setup that needed to shoot "minute of deer" with max 100yd shots that's one thing, but for a rifle that has to hold zero through hikes and travel, you probably want to have everything guaranteed solid. As others have said, lapping is necessary if any significant amount of shimming is done.
 

Musket Man

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Ok, yeah the reason why it's opposite is because they are two different brands of rings. First I had a problem one way and now I have it the other way. Bs, lol


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It really makes no sense that 1 brand would be low in the back and the other high in the back. None of this makes any sense. You have a factory gun and rings and bases made for it should work without any mods. I would talk to Weatherby. It may be possible your gun was made right around a model change or they changed the receiver slightly and the mounts are not correct because of it, just a thought. I understand why you like the 2 piece bases, I like them better too, but any time you have to shim or modify the base I think a 1 piece is much better since it will be much solider and it will also keep the scope rings in alignment. I think the shim had trouble working out because of the recoil of the 300 Weatherby with 2 piece bases. I think with a 1 piece base and a well made shim that the screws go through it would stay in place and work just fine. Good luck and let us know what you figure out!
 

libidilatimmy

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Oct 22, 2013
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Wyoming
Another nice thing they have on their website is where you choose your action type and scope and it gives you the base and ring options for mounting.