Care of Deer Hide in Field

micropterus79

Active Member
Jun 19, 2014
220
0
San Tan Valley, AZ
Hi All

I apologize if that has been covered but I did search through some old threads to make sure it wasn't too recent or obvious. I might be being optimistic but I want to know the proper way to care for a deer hide in the field. If I do happen to down a buck this year, it would not only be my first archery deer but my first buck period and I would like to save the hide to make a blanket or quiver or something cool like that. Growing up, we never used the hides so I just never saw how to do it right.

From what I have read online, all you need to do is clean the hide really well and pack it with salt. What is not clear to me are the following:

1.) Should the hide be rolled up or does it need to be exposed to air? If it needs to be exposed, how should it be transported in the truck bed?
2.) How soon does the hide need to be taken to the processor?
3.) What are any tricks or hints that y'all have come up with to get better/more efficient results?

I'm not worried about the cape or anything because I am going to just euro mount the head. Thanks in advance for any help on this one!
 

B4U

New Member
Jan 28, 2014
23
0
MN
It is best to lay it out flat, OUT of the sun. After the first 24 hours, dump the old salt off, and resalt a second time. After the salt has cured the hide the second time, it will begin to stiffen the hide, it then can be folded or rolled up before it gets too hard. After the hide is cured to this stage,be sure to keep it dry, and free of bugs until you get it to your processor. Get it to your processor the sooner the better so you do not risk any damage or slippage to your hide. Hope this helps you!
 

Topgun 30-06

Banned
Jun 12, 2013
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Allegan, MI
The salt doen't really "cure" the hide, but rather brings out all the moisture. You can salt and roll them up for a few days and keep it in a cool environment with no problem. If it will be some time until you get it to the processor, put it in your freezer until you can take it.
 

Colorado Cowboy

Super Moderator
Jun 8, 2011
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One other thing I always do is to "flesh" the hide as much as I can. This means removing as much fat and tissue as you can before you salt it down. I like to use a big butter or table knife and scrape the hell out of it. This helps keep anything from starting to spoil or rot.
 

Ikeepitcold

Administrator
Staff member
Feb 22, 2011
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Reno Nv
I'm not sure you need to salt your hide in the field as your thread is asking. I personally have never salted a hide in the field. Once the hide is off lay it out hair down out of direct sunlight while you are caring for the meat. When your ready to head out fold up the hide flesh to flesh then roll it up and take it home or to camp. Once there then you can salt the way the guys above have advised you to do.

Good luck on your hunt.
 

luckynv

Active Member
Aug 3, 2014
274
1
Henderson, Nv
I read somewhere about salting bear hides and you are supposed to use salt without Iodine and the article went on to say that about 30 pounds for an average size bear. Not sure how an average size bear equates to a deer but I would guess half? You may also want to inquire with a local taxidermist for prep instructions. Good luck and God bless
 

Topgun 30-06

Banned
Jun 12, 2013
1,353
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Allegan, MI
I have never heard of that much salt on any type of hide. Several pounds once or possibly twice if you don't have a freezer to put it in before you get it to the processor is all you need. I usually spread it out thoroughly and even rub it into the hide some with my bare hand before rolling it up.
 

newguy220

Member
Jul 12, 2012
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0
Idaho
Lots of the taxidermists I've talked to say not freeze the hide with salt on it. Either salt them or freeze them, but not both. I've never salted anything, just froze them and have had good luck.

newguy220
 

Cobbhunts

Veteran member
Jan 22, 2014
1,060
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Kentucky
How do you freeze them in the field? :)

I've been told flesh to flesh, then roll it up and get it cold. Freeze as soon as possible. I an intrigued by the salt method though, and I'm going to ask my taxidermist what he prefers.
 

Hilltop

Veteran member
Feb 25, 2014
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Eastern Nebraska
I sell deer hides every fall to a fur buyer. They absolutely will not buy a frozen hide- not sure why. They ask that it is reasonably fleshed and folded flesh to flesh and then kept cold but not frozen. They want the hide within 10 days of harvest. He told me I didn't need to salt at all either but again not sure why. I am guessing they use the hides hair off so I'm not sure how much methods need to vary for a fur on tan.
 

Winchester

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Mar 27, 2014
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Woodland Park, Colorado
I have used both methods (salt or freeze) depending on the situation and I've had good results from each. Regardless of which method you use it does help to fresh the hide really well. An Alaskan Ulu is an all-purpose knife traditionally used by Yup'ik, Inuit, and Aleut tribes and works well for fleshing. Ulu.jpg
 

micropterus79

Active Member
Jun 19, 2014
220
0
San Tan Valley, AZ
I have used both methods (salt or freeze) depending on the situation and I've had good results from each. Regardless of which method you use it does help to fresh the hide really well. An Alaskan Ulu is an all-purpose knife traditionally used by Yup'ik, Inuit, and Aleut tribes and works well for fleshing. View attachment 10314
Awesome. Thanks winchester. I have one of those the inlaws gave me that came with some weird cutting board; it was packaged to be for kitchen use but now I know what it is really for...

Hilltop: I am going for a no fur hide so hopefully the methods don't vary too much but I didn't think of that; will look into it today.

Given what I have seen, since it will probably still be pretty dang warm where I am hunting, I am going to make sure I have either an extra cooler or enough cooler space to accomodate a folded (flesh to fleash) hide and I'll be sure to keep the water off it. I'm going to flesh it as best as I can and put a little salt on it just to remove some of the moisture as 30-06 mentioned and get it to the processor ASAP. Since several methods seem to work, I have lot more faith that I can get the hide back home in reasonable shape for tanning.

Thank you all a ton!
 
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hardstalk

Veteran member
Sep 13, 2011
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vegas
I sell deer hides every fall to a fur buyer. They absolutely will not buy a frozen hide- not sure why. They ask that it is reasonably fleshed and folded flesh to flesh and then kept cold but not frozen. They want the hide within 10 days of harvest. He told me I didn't need to salt at all either but again not sure why. I am guessing they use the hides hair off so I'm not sure how much methods need to vary for a fur on tan.
In my experience they want never frozen to be able to judge the freshness. Some people keep a hide frozen for years and then try to turn it as fresh. Once freezer burned I believe there useless. If handling while frozen and brittle the hide can crack depending on age I believe.
 

Colorado Cowboy

Super Moderator
Jun 8, 2011
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Many years ago my Dad had a Taxidermist in his gun shop. Used to take in lots of hides. He used to stack them salted and then crate them and send to the tannery. His main concern was age of hide and he checked every one to see if any of the hair "slipped".
 

micropterus79

Active Member
Jun 19, 2014
220
0
San Tan Valley, AZ
Many years ago my Dad had a Taxidermist in his gun shop. Used to take in lots of hides. He used to stack them salted and then crate them and send to the tannery. His main concern was age of hide and he checked every one to see if any of the hair "slipped".
Hey CC. What does that mean "the hair slipped?" and is it important if you don't want a tanned hide with the hair on? Thanks again for the input!
 

Colorado Cowboy

Super Moderator
Jun 8, 2011
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When you pull lightly on the hair it comes out in your hand. Important with a cape for mounting, but a tanned, hair off hide, probably not. I think this is an early indication of spoilage.
 

CrimsonArrow

Very Active Member
Feb 21, 2011
854
362
Minnesota
If you are going to be out in the field for more than a couple days after the kill, and it's warm, you need to flesh it out the best you can, then salt it well. You need to use canning or pickling salt, which is iodine free, and rub it into the skin really well. Most important is air drying/cooling the skin immediately, and keep it dry until you can get it to a taxidermist. All that being said, if you can just get it into a cooler or freezer within a day, you'll be better off.
 

gonhunting247

Veteran member
Jan 21, 2014
1,216
797
The salt is really only necessary for the hair on style tanning. Hair-off/buckskin will be soaked, to make the hair and the sub-dermal layer slip anyway. If it's fleshed and kept cool it should stay fresh enough, until frozen and taken to the processor. As mentioned before salt will pull all the moisture, preserve and set the hair(that's okay too!). If your shipping the hide to the processor, this is the way to go. If your delivering the hide to the processor in person, then freezing is fine. Theoretically, actually leaving unsalted and/or unfrozen is fine for hair off tanning, other than the smell and the mess. (I personally flesh and salt all hides for either use, due to shipping, freezer space, smell and pride:).) A lot of you folks must remember the hide collection barrels. Those were left out for days with unsalted, unfleshed hides and they made leather/buckskin out of those.
I'm not recommending letting the hide get all smelly and nasty, the guy that ends up processing it will appreciate you taking good care of it! I'm just saying that it's not something to get too worried about. HAIR-ON is a whole other story.
Take care, have a great hunt!
 
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