Hello everyone. I've got a fairly quick question. The other day I mounted my first BDC style scope on my 300wsm which I plan on using for most of my big game hunts out west. In the past, with standard duplex reticles, I zero my rifles at 200 to make shots out to 300 fairly easy with a very small amount of holdover. With this Meopta mcwhorter BDC reticle, I'm torn on whether to zero it at 100 or 200 yds. Thoughts?
100 vs 200 yd zero?
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Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
libidilatimmy
Veteran member
Somewhere in the manual you received with the new scope, it should tell you the sub-tensions in either MOA or Mils for the graduated lines at max power. I'd compare the load you want to shoot to these sub-tensions with a ballistic program, like Hornady has on their website, with the two different zero ranges and see which matches your ballistic profile the closest.
If we weren't talking about a BDC style reticle, I'd suggest a 200 yd zero every day of the week given the shot distances we will typically encounter hunting in the west.
If we weren't talking about a BDC style reticle, I'd suggest a 200 yd zero every day of the week given the shot distances we will typically encounter hunting in the west.
This scope has a 1st plane reticle so it says accurate regardless of zoom level and meopta's ballistic calculator allows you to personalize the reticle to whatever load you're shooting. I'm just wonderin what others have done in this case...just zero at 100 and use the lines for the rest or zero at 200 and only use the lines for shots out to 400 and beyond.
Umpqua Hunter
Veteran member
I shoot a Leupold with a B&C reticle (a BDC type reticle). I have found the best thing for me is to sight in the rifle at 400 yards on the 400 yard reticle, then anything inside of that is cake.
If I try to zero at lesser yardages then later shoot at 400 yards on the 400 yard reticule, it is never quite on like it should be.
If I try to zero at lesser yardages then later shoot at 400 yards on the 400 yard reticule, it is never quite on like it should be.
Musket Man
Veteran member
I zero at 200 yards as well but with a BDC reticle it will make a difference how it is designed and how it matches the trajectory of your rifle. I have seen some BDC reticles that recommend zeroing at 100 for some calibers and 200 for others. I would check the manufacturers recommendations.
libidilatimmy
Veteran member
^^^This is sound advice if you have a range you can shoot this far at. I shoot a scope graduated in straight MOA on my 300 WSM where I'm playing with different zeros at different ranges with different loads and my back to zero check for hunting is always 4 MOA drop @ 400 yds.
Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
All of my big game rifles are equipt with Leupold VXIII scopes and I have worked very hard to have a pet load for each one. I have custom ballistic turrets for each scope/rifle combination for that specific load and all are set a 200 yard zero. It works well for me.
Hilltop
Veteran member
This is exactly how I do it. I am very comfortable with shots from zero to my personal limit of 500 yards.
Agree with UH as well. But also, your manual should describe in detail what you should be zeroing to. Rule of thumb, if you will, is magnum rifles zero at 200. That should put you at 1.5-2.0 inches high at 100. My .270wsm zeroed at 200 -- is 1.8" high at 100.
Same exact scope on my standard .270 or .243 recommends a 100 yard zero.
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Same exact scope on my standard .270 or .243 recommends a 100 yard zero.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
WapitiBob
Veteran member
I zero at 200, get my clicks for 500 and 800 then make a yardage tape for my turret. In your case I would decide how far I want to shoot and base the zero off that. In any case, you'll need to verify the drops out to the max hash mark.
Muleys 24/7
Veteran member
kesand72
Active Member
dihardhunter
Active Member
Dearhunter3450
Active Member
I ordered a zeiss with bdc z8 for my .300 wsm and they recommend a 200 yard zero for that caliber. With the z6 bdc they recommend a 100 yard zero. I would read owners manual, hopefully will help you out. This manual also says magnification doesn't effect accuracy 300 yard and under but above that there is an optimal setting of 12 power. Good luck.
100 vs 200 yd zero
I always sight my rifles in for a 250 yard zero. That way 300 yards will not require any hold over. In the West, 300 yards will look like 150 or 200 yards if you're used to hunting the east and you won't be able to tell it's 300 yards without a rangefinder. Also, in the west, 300 yards may be the closest you can get -- however, you should always try and get as close as possible. The latest Barnes reloading book will give you trajectories for a 250 yard zero.
406precision
New Member
It really doesn't matter what range you site your rifle in with a bdc reticle 100 or 200 even 300 yards
What does matter is that you take the time to go out and shoot at the distances you plan on using the reticle with your zero set at your preferred distance and log the info into a data book or reference chart that you can use when you go to the field.
If you hunt in very similar conditions as you practice these type of reticles can be effective, however if you plan on sighting in at sea level and then traveling to Montana to hunt you will not be pleased with the results. Dramatic changes in environmental standards are going to play havoc with any generic drop reticle because one shoe does not fit all...
Jordan@406
What does matter is that you take the time to go out and shoot at the distances you plan on using the reticle with your zero set at your preferred distance and log the info into a data book or reference chart that you can use when you go to the field.
If you hunt in very similar conditions as you practice these type of reticles can be effective, however if you plan on sighting in at sea level and then traveling to Montana to hunt you will not be pleased with the results. Dramatic changes in environmental standards are going to play havoc with any generic drop reticle because one shoe does not fit all...
Jordan@406
hoshour
Veteran member
Back East it's hard to find ranges with long distances. I sight in my .270 to be 3 inches high at 100 yards, which for my ammo is 0 at 250. Then I check it again at a range out West to make sure it's still on.
I don't shoot over 400 so I really only have to think about wind drift and holding just over his back at 400. But actually, I'd much rather not to have to shoot that far. I'm prouder of a closer stalk than I am a long shot and I keep my odds of wounding very low.
I don't shoot over 400 so I really only have to think about wind drift and holding just over his back at 400. But actually, I'd much rather not to have to shoot that far. I'm prouder of a closer stalk than I am a long shot and I keep my odds of wounding very low.
Good Morning Gentlemen,
I have used the drop compensated reticles for seven years now and love them. Mine are all Leupolds and I follow their recommendations in the manual. My 257 Weatherby is sighted in dead on at three-hundred yards and the corresponding "crosshairs" in the Varmint Hunter reticle go out to 700 in theory. I've busted 1/2 gallon & gallon milk jugs out to those ranges with each crosshair. I like to do my killing much much closer though. I've never had a bullet go anywhere but where it was supposed to with this rifle set up this way. My 338-378, 7mm RUM, and wife's 270 win are all set up with a drop compensated reticle (either the VH or B&C from Leupold) they all put bullets where they are supposed to at the advertised ranges. I live, shoot, and hunt in Wyoming so my rifles are tuned for the atmospheric conditions in which they are used. When I do go back "East" to hunt in Michigan with family I take my M700 Titanium in .308 Win with a good old 1.5" high at 100 yds zero. I usually kill my bucks from a treestand or elevated position at around fifty paces. So, to answer the question... 200 or 300 yard "zero" for "out west" is what you want. Follow the directions in your manual and you will not be disappointed. Shoot your gun when you get to your destination to be certain and you should be golden!
I have used the drop compensated reticles for seven years now and love them. Mine are all Leupolds and I follow their recommendations in the manual. My 257 Weatherby is sighted in dead on at three-hundred yards and the corresponding "crosshairs" in the Varmint Hunter reticle go out to 700 in theory. I've busted 1/2 gallon & gallon milk jugs out to those ranges with each crosshair. I like to do my killing much much closer though. I've never had a bullet go anywhere but where it was supposed to with this rifle set up this way. My 338-378, 7mm RUM, and wife's 270 win are all set up with a drop compensated reticle (either the VH or B&C from Leupold) they all put bullets where they are supposed to at the advertised ranges. I live, shoot, and hunt in Wyoming so my rifles are tuned for the atmospheric conditions in which they are used. When I do go back "East" to hunt in Michigan with family I take my M700 Titanium in .308 Win with a good old 1.5" high at 100 yds zero. I usually kill my bucks from a treestand or elevated position at around fifty paces. So, to answer the question... 200 or 300 yard "zero" for "out west" is what you want. Follow the directions in your manual and you will not be disappointed. Shoot your gun when you get to your destination to be certain and you should be golden!