Easton Axis with 50 gr brass inserts

[bowrunner]

I have been contemplating shooting an arrow with a higher front of center after reading the benefits on it quite a bit. I shoot a 70lb bow with a 28.5in draw and have shot a 28 in arrow and a 100 grain head in the past. I bought a dozen Easton axis 300 shafts. I am wondering if anyone on here has used a similar setup and how well they have performed. I realize I would be slightly overspined with a 300 shaft, but with a 50gr brass insert I saw on the Easton chart that a 29 in arrow would need a 300 spine so I am only barely overspined. I have not cut any arrows yet, or purchase the 50gr brass inserts, because I wanted to get some feedback first.

 

[Slugz]

What sort of FOC are you calculating with the inserts? Vice where you are at now. What kind of fletching? Helical? and finally what broadheads do you shoot?

The team at EF also has a very very detailed and good ( I think the best simple mans article written on this) May be able to find it on the electronic copy search.

 

[bowrunner]

I will calculate my current FOC on my lunch break, and do a quick calculation to figure out my anticipated possible FOC if I build the arrows indicated above. I shoot both shuttle T-locks and I just experimented with rage hypodermic +P and had some good results, both 100gr. I shoot about a 1.5 degree right helical with an AAE 26 platifletch vane. My current arrow is an Easton epic 340 with the standard inserts that came with it. I had to dial my bow down to about 67lb to shoot them because they were slightly weak at 70lb.

I will get the FOC and get back to you asap. Thanks.

 

[Slugz]

Doing some quick math and not stating the obvious (just repeating the checklist I use)

1. Properly tuned bow will shoot any broad head at modern speeds with accuracy. I asked about the helical cause I like max helical possible when shooting broadheads with more surface area like a G5 or something like it.
2. At the speed you are shooting a double digit FOC will be your absolute sweet spot.

8-10 percent FOC. is the minimum for a combo of broadhead/arrow stability vs trajectory. Increasing will get you more stability (forgiveness and less deflections and wind) increased penetration potential. We target 12 to 15 percent F.O.C. with compound arrows.

Flip side, increasing FOC by increasing front-end mass reduces arrow speed by about 4-6 fps per 25 grains added. I'm happy with the trade off of 10 -15 fps in trade for penetration, added forgiveness and reliability. Gotta balance the desires by also factoring in vane weight/lighted nocks.

 

[bowrunner]

I just checked my current FOC with my Easton epic 340s and it is 10.1%. I think with the 300 shafts and a 50gr brass inserts I would be closer tot he 12% range you mentioned.

 

[Ranch Fairy]

Howdy,
I shoot the following setups, 28.5" shafts, 70 lb. bow. Live in Texas, lots of pig skewering. 70% spot and stalk, shot distance averages 34. Feeder shots, 20 yards. (yeah, I know, Western guys don't use feeders, but man when Western guys come to the ranch, they sure like them....ha! Pigs are great!)

ICS 400, 100 grain insert, 125 grain Magnus Stinger. This is my spot and stalk "long range" set up - slider set to 60 yards.
18% FOC
ICS 340, 29 grain aluminum insert, 100 grain steel adaptor, 190 grain Grizzly single bevel.
22% FOC
ICS 300, 100 grain insert, 100 grain steel adaptor, 190 grain Grizzly single bevel.
24% FOC

They all fly, bare shaft, like darts.

I see comments about arrow speed, there is always a trade off. It's either fast and tweaky or "slower" and consistent. If you want your broadheads and FP's to hit in the same spot and they are not doing that now, the set up is the problem, and it is a common issue. Some thing has to give. I gave up arrow speed a long time ago. Shoot a slider sight and my head doesn't know how fast its' going. 45 yards is a mark on my slider.

The heavier set ups are for bigger boar hogs, punches the shield like it isn't there.

My first advice to you would be 100 grain brass insert + 100 or 125 FP into the 340's and look up bare shaft tuning on the internet.

 

[bowrunner]

Your setup is very similar to mine. I ended up buying a doz. Easton axis 300 shafts and the 75-50gr brass inserts. (they are 75gr but you can break off the back to make them 50gr) I have not done anything with them yet, as I am still trying to organize my plan. I have 340 shafts that I will use for turkey hunting, because I will dial down my bow to 65 or 64lb. I have some time before I really need to cut these shafts and start building them.

I appreciate the information because it sounds like we have similar bow setups and similar thought processes on arrow weight distribution.

 

[tdcour]

For my setup I'm not too different than what you are trying to do. I went with the FMJ, broke off the back end so I had the extra 50 grains instead of 75 grains and went with a 100 grain head. I can get my slick trick standards to fly with my field points out to 70 until they start to drop an inch or two more due to increased drag on the head. I can't complain about that. I would have to recalculate my FOC, but I want to say it was in the 8-10 range. 28" draw, 27" FMJ 340 weighing 501 grains flying 268 fps. I wouldn't mind a little faster arrow, but this thing sure hits hard.

 

[bowrunner]

For my setup I'm not too different than what you are trying to do. I went with the FMJ, broke off the back end so I had the extra 50 grains instead of 75 grains and went with a 100 grain head. I can get my slick trick standards to fly with my field points out to 70 until they start to drop an inch or two more due to increased drag on the head. I can't complain about that. I would have to recalculate my FOC, but I want to say it was in the 8-10 range. 28" draw, 27" FMJ 340 weighing 501 grains flying 268 fps. I wouldn't mind a little faster arrow, but this thing sure hits hard.

I am leaning toward using the 50gr insert instead of 75gr as well. My arrows will be slightly lighter than yours when they are all done, so the FOC will be slightly higher. Mine are 10.7gr/in and they will be about 28-28.5in long. I think 268 is plenty fast in my opinion. Im not sure what mine will be shooting. I shoot a Mathews Drenalin at 28.5in draw and 70#.

I shot rage hypodermic +p broadheads and had a pass through on a whitetail buck this year, but I have always used shuttle-T lock broadheads in the past and had good arrow flight. I just wanted to try something different.

 

[Slugz]

I am leaning toward using the 50gr insert instead of 75gr as well. My arrows will be slightly lighter than yours when they are all done, so the FOC will be slightly higher. Mine are 10.7gr/in and they will be about 28-28.5in long. I think 268 is plenty fast in my opinion. Im not sure what mine will be shooting. I shoot a Mathews Drenalin at 28.5in draw and 70#.

I shot rage hypodermic +p broadheads and had a pass through on a whitetail buck this year, but I have always used shuttle-T lock broadheads in the past and had good arrow flight. I just wanted to try something different.

If you dont use them already.....there are a few really good Apps to use for final calculations and true sweet spots for your personal set up. I like the Hunters Friend.....my local shop uses one that is more graphic but I cant remember the name of it.

 

[bowrunner]

If you dont use them already.....there are a few really good Apps to use for final calculations and true sweet spots for your personal set up. I like the Hunters Friend.....my local shop uses one that is more graphic but I cant remember the name of it.

Thanks, Ill take a look at that. I have not cut them yet.

 

[Slugz]

I'll call the shop and ask which one they use......its nice and graphic with a sliding green, yellow, red scale on each parameter so you can make small changes to get them maxed out in each category.

 

[bowrunner]

That's extremely helpful! Thanks a lot. If I can download the app for it I will. Again, Thanks!

I'll call the shop and ask which one they use......its nice and graphic with a sliding green, yellow, red scale on each parameter so you can make small changes to get them maxed out in each category.

 

[Slugz]

Pinwheelsoftware.com

It appears though they charge for it now. If you are a lifetime archer then I still think it's worth the 39.99.

 

[bowrunner]

Pinwheelsoftware.com

It appears though they charge for it now. If you are a lifetime archer then I still think it's worth the 39.99.

I checked out the software and you are correct. They charge for it. I might check out the other one you suggested, The hunters friend, first and see how that program work. Thanks a lot for the information and Ill let you know how it all goes.

A guy that works at the Archery area at the local Cabelas drew a New Mexico 16b rifle tag, so Im going to have these cut the next time he is working so I can find out how his hunt went. He told me his wife make a lot of money, so he just works at Cabelas for fun and hunts all over the place. That sounds like the life.