Maybe this has already been talked about but what is the best way to tune a three blade fixed broadhead to your arrowshafts?
Tuning broadheads
- Thread starter az.mountain runner
- Start date
Stay Sharp
Very Active Member
Compound bow or Traditional bow broadhead tuning? (one allows you to move the rest and the other usually does not)
If you are referring to broadhead alignment to the fletches, its a non factor and not worth doing.
If you are referring to broadhead alignment to the fletches, its a non factor and not worth doing.
DaveZ
Member
Here is what I always try and do.
1. Arrow shafts need to have square ends and broadheads need to sit flush. If they don't, no matter how much tuning you do, your arrows will go everywhere. I use the G5 ASD (Arrow Squaring Device) to insure a square end.
2. Assuming your bow is correctly to tuned with fieldpoints. Start at 10 to 15 yards and first shoot your broadhead at the target (saves on fletching) then your field point at the bullseye.
3.Note your starting rest location. If the broadhead is left or right of the field point, adjust the rest left or right a small amount (like no more than a 1/16"). The broadhead can make the arrow do funny things so try moving the rest one direction and shoot the broadhead and fieldtip arrows again. Do not worry about hitting the bullseye, be concerned with the arrows hitting the same spot. Do the same procedure if the broadhead is above or below, just move the rest up or down a small amount and re-shoot.
4.Repeat steps until the broadhead and field point impact the same spot. Then sight the bow in to hit the bullseye at your starting distance.
5. Step back to 30yds and repeat steps 1 through 4. At the longer distances, any adjustments to the rest should be very small.
If the broadheads continue to have different impact points then field points, there may be an arrow tuning (incorrect spine, broadhead not square, fletching contact, etc.), bow tuning issue, or there is always the chance of the shooter torquing the bow.
Broadhead tuning is one of the best ways to make sure everything is tuned because it can amplify any flaw in the system.
Good luck!!
Dave
1. Arrow shafts need to have square ends and broadheads need to sit flush. If they don't, no matter how much tuning you do, your arrows will go everywhere. I use the G5 ASD (Arrow Squaring Device) to insure a square end.
2. Assuming your bow is correctly to tuned with fieldpoints. Start at 10 to 15 yards and first shoot your broadhead at the target (saves on fletching) then your field point at the bullseye.
3.Note your starting rest location. If the broadhead is left or right of the field point, adjust the rest left or right a small amount (like no more than a 1/16"). The broadhead can make the arrow do funny things so try moving the rest one direction and shoot the broadhead and fieldtip arrows again. Do not worry about hitting the bullseye, be concerned with the arrows hitting the same spot. Do the same procedure if the broadhead is above or below, just move the rest up or down a small amount and re-shoot.
4.Repeat steps until the broadhead and field point impact the same spot. Then sight the bow in to hit the bullseye at your starting distance.
5. Step back to 30yds and repeat steps 1 through 4. At the longer distances, any adjustments to the rest should be very small.
If the broadheads continue to have different impact points then field points, there may be an arrow tuning (incorrect spine, broadhead not square, fletching contact, etc.), bow tuning issue, or there is always the chance of the shooter torquing the bow.
Broadhead tuning is one of the best ways to make sure everything is tuned because it can amplify any flaw in the system.
Good luck!!
Dave
tdcour
Veteran member
What type of bow do you have? If it is a has yokes you will have to tune using those. Otherwise using the steps Dave mentions above will work fine. I have an insanity cpx so I have to set my center shot with my rest then tune using the yokes by putting in and taking out twists.
Thanks Dave z and tdcour i shoot a mattews dxt with G5 fixed blade broadheads ,easton axis or epic shafts 340 spine ,my draw weight is 68lbs and I'm shooting low and to the right with G5's and tack driving with field points,I can easily shoot a 3 to 4 inch group out to 70yrds. With field tips ,but around three inches low and three inches right at thirty yards with G5's I'm unable to shoot longer than thirty yards with mybroadheads the range i shot at long distance only allows field tips so the 30 is when I'm hunting don't dare shoot longer yardage afraid I'll miss all together at longer distance, and when you adjust your arrow rest do you adjust it up and down the same as your sights chasing the arrow? And yes i square my arrows up i use the little round biscuit style and do it while everything is sitting flat on the table.
Last edited:
Finsandtines
Very Active Member
http://forum.eastmans.com/showthread.php/11568-Fixed-broadhead-tuning?highlight=Tuning+broadheads
Good info here, I learned that I was part of the blame and then also had to move rest left when shooting to the right.....
Good info here, I learned that I was part of the blame and then also had to move rest left when shooting to the right.....
Slugz
Veteran member
Stay Sharp,
Interested on your thoughts on non alignment for fletches and broadheads. (non factor and not worth doing). Whats your data on that?
Thanks
Interested on your thoughts on non alignment for fletches and broadheads. (non factor and not worth doing). Whats your data on that?
Thanks
tdcour
Veteran member
You will want to make one adjustment at a time. Move your rest to the left a bit to get squared away then move your rest up to bring your arrow up. Here is what I have found pretty useful. 
I also shoot the G5 fixed blade broadheads. My question to you is why aren't you using the practice broadheads that G5 makes? I use them and they are identicle except the are not sharp. That allows you to tune and practice with the same broadhead.
I don't "broadhead" tune. It's a by product of my tuning methods. I guarantee of you can get bare shafts with fletched at 20+ yards you can put on literally any fixed head you want, 2 to 20 blades and your broadheads should be tuned with your field points.
Plus bare shaft tuning makes sure the stiffest part of each arrow shaft is in the same plane as the top vane, your draw length is correct, cams are timed and synced, and the arrow is the correct spine.
Plus bare shaft tuning makes sure the stiffest part of each arrow shaft is in the same plane as the top vane, your draw length is correct, cams are timed and synced, and the arrow is the correct spine.
DaveZ
Member
In general, you do not chase the arrow. If the arrow is left, move rest to the right. If the arrow is low, raise the rest. Keep in mind, VERY small adjustments.
But as I mentioned before, start by moving the rest in one direction and if that does't work, try going the opposite direction.
Ok I'm not that experienced with archery equipment, let me say that up front. I may be wrong in my thinking but it seems to me like there is too much thinking going on here. Seems like if you can put your broadhead on the target at the ranges you expect to shoot every time you are good.
I like to keep things as simple as possible.
badgerbob
Active Member
Good point. My broadheads don't shoot the same as my field points. I start each season shooting field points to get used to the bow again. About a month before season opens I start shooting my broadheads. I hunt with the ones I have practiced with, after a good sharpening of course. I have my arrows numbered and know where each one shoots and which one shoots best even though they all shoot in a fairly tight group. I do have to adjust my bow a bit for the broad heads to be on.
DaveZ
Member
Calling it "broadhead" tuning is a little misleading. You are not tuning your broadheads, you are tuning your bow. The fletching on on an arrow with a field point will steer the arrow fairly consistenly. The fixed blade broadhead on an arrow acts like another set of fletching but on the front. If the arrow/bow are not tuned correctly, the broadhead will impact in a different spot.
By "broadhead" tuning, the bow will shoot your broadheads and field points in the same place. Also, you will see better consistency with field points.
I do have practice broadhead just want to get the bow tuned better before I lose or destroy a 15.00 dollar arrow trying to shoot out past thirty yards were it is already dropping 3 inches in two directions
And thanks for all the info I don't believe the bow shop that I bought it at never set it up right when I picked up the bow and paper shot it ,it was showing some kicking, when I question it his response was we don't worry about that so much anymore maybe they don't but from all I've read the majority still do ,P.S. I don't use that shop anymore and trying to figure it out myself with all everyone's great input ��
Here is a good reference for tuning your bow.
http://cdn.eastonarchery.com/uploads/download-files/Tuning_Guide.pdf
http://cdn.eastonarchery.com/uploads/download-files/Tuning_Guide.pdf