Absolutely a stringer! Don't string without one, if you screw up the limbs, you'll be buying new ones! I'm the VP of Wenatchi River Traditional Archers in Wenatchee, WA, and have shot trad for decades-not that it's made an improvement in my groups!! Tradgang is the place to ask questions, and 3Rivers is the place to shop unless you can find a pro shop in your area that carries sticks as well as wheelbows. I shot a Hoyt Proforce Extreme in league competitions for several years before I gave it up and returned to traditional, so I'm familiar with both worlds. Trad's a LOT simpler!
Pay close attention to your anchor point and release, and don't drop your bow hand! Samick's are nice bows: we have two of them for target use and to return to when our groups go downhill. Aught6fan's comments of Asbell are right on; good ol` "G Fred" is an excellent resource. 50 pounds might make you a little overbowed for awhile, but you should grow into it pretty quick. Tuning is easier with a stick than wheels simply because your spine is pretty much the only thing you can tweak substantially. You may find that the bow likes arrows with a different spine than what she's built for, and the easiest way to change is by using arrows that have screw in points. Just raise or lower the grain count on the point depending on where your groups tend to wind up. Don't feel honor bound to use wood shafts, either! Especially if you build your own arrows, Aluminum and carbon shafts are nice and allow you to change points quicker than heating up the glue on the tip. You'll need a high-speed saw for carbon to cut off the shafts to the correct length, otherwise you'll just shatter the carbon and won't get a clean cut. And use the fletch tape, which is obscenely easy! Feel free to pm me if i can help in any way!
