Mechanical vs. Fixed Blade Broadheads for Elk

[micropterus79]

I have yet to kill an animal with my bow but when I was getting outfitted for archery, I certainly faced this question and I was able to quickly answer it with another question:

There are many, many examples of mechanical blades working flawlessly but (outside of hunter error, a bad bow/arrow setup, not keeping blades sharp, etc...) are there any stories of a fixed blade that did not work as it was supposed to??

Point is, if you use fixed blades and do your part, you don't have to even have to consider broadhead failure, right?

 

[Bonecollector]

I've broken blades on a fixed BH. The nice concept of mechanical, a good one, is better flight at a great distance. Additionally, you can get larger entrance/exit holes. I think after years of progress, mechanicals are fine. But to each their own. When shooting a recurve or long bow, I like the really old school BH's .

 

[Hilltop]

I have yet to kill an animal with my bow but when I was getting outfitted for archery, I certainly faced this question and I was able to quickly answer it with another question:

There are many, many examples of mechanical blades working flawlessly but (outside of hunter error, a bad bow/arrow setup, not keeping blades sharp, etc...) are there any stories of a fixed blade that did not work as it was supposed to??

Point is, if you use fixed blades and do your part, you don't have to even have to consider broadhead failure, right?

I have also broken blades on a fixed blade head. My biggest reason for using mechanicals is arrow flight. I can fine tune my bow with field points and I'm ready to hunt. The mechanicals don't steer the arrow from the front so I don't have to worry about re-tuning my bow right before season because I just changed how my arrow flies. If you are shooting an arrow around 250fps it is much easier to tune the bow to shoot fixed heads well. The faster you increase speed, the more difficult it becomes to tune for fixed heads. I am shooting over 300 fps with my current setup so I choose to take the easy route.

Another consideration is side wind effect on your arrow. With a fixed head, you have more side surface area for wind to grab. This makes it important for you to practice with a side wind so you understand how your specific setup will perform when wind is present. With a mechanical you not only have less wind effect, you also have all the field point practice sessions to remember what wind does to your normal arrow.

In my experience, what's on the tip of your arrow matters little if you place the arrow through both lungs. Hunters need to shoot what they are comfortable with and what they can deliver accurately to the lungs of their target. After that a sharpened spoon would likely get the job done...

 

[ColoradoV]

Slick tricks have worked great for me and so have the Ulmer's.

If you place the arrow where it should go I have not had any problems with either.

 

[micropterus79]

Okay, so I am going to back off a little on my previous statement, and thank you bonecollector and hilltop for the info.

It seems manufacturing technology and materials have rendered the mechanical broadhead just as reliable (or just as unreliable) as the fixed broadhead, plus the added benefit of easier tuning and more predictable flight in windy conditions.

It is still difficult for me to downplay the concept of fewer moving parts = more reliable but this thread is opening my mind.

 

[25contender]

Still a fixed blade fan here. I really don't like to fix something that has always worked well for me.

 

[Hilltop]

Still a fixed blade fan here. I really don't like to fix something that has always worked well for me.

And I believe this is what it boils down to. A bow hunter needs to believe in what he is shooting. That confidence translates to better shots in the field IMO. I'm not sure there is a right answer for a beginner as I see the Pros and Cons of both. Either will do a great job if it is delivered properly.

 

[WapitiBob]

Okay, so I am going to back off a little on my previous statement, and thank you bonecollector and hilltop for the info.

It seems manufacturing technology and materials have rendered the mechanical broadhead just as reliable (or just as unreliable) as the fixed broadhead, plus the added benefit of easier tuning and more predictable flight in windy conditions.

It is still difficult for me to downplay the concept of fewer moving parts = more reliable but this thread is opening my mind.

I will pick a Spitfire for my Elk arrow every time I hunt a state where they're legal. They have proven themselves to leave better blood and faster kills on my bulls. That said, they simply don't have the blade strength a fixed head has because of the attachment mechanism. But, I don't worry about it. I don't shoot Elk in the leg or thru the scapula where it might be a problem.
If you're one of those guys trying to create a setup that will go thru a Louisville Slugger at 50 yards, a slow taper fixed head is probably the best route.

 

[laxwyo]

Spitfires for years. Only way to go.

I can't believe anyone uses rage. Not one person I personally know has had good luck with them

 

[Finsandtines]

Over 20 kills with various spitfires. Xp pro, edge and maxx have all worked great for me. I am too comfortable with them and now have to start shooting fixed blades for a hunt in 5 weeks that I can't use the spitfires!

 

[Slugz]

Montec G5.....they fly just like your field points. I have em on FMJs with Blazers (3 degree).

 

[Mark]

QUD Exodus. Full blade fixed. 100gr.

Antelope, quartering towards at 25yds.

 

[7shot]

I will put out another vote for 4 blade slick tricks in 100 grain. they are super sharp, fly very well from my bow out to 80 yards and hitting with the field points. They make a super big hole with 4 blades, and both my elk and my deer had complete pass through shots last year and both animals were down within 50 yards. Here is the entrance hole on my buck and the exit hole on my elk.

Of course we in Idaho can't shoot mechanicals on big game, so my opinion may not be valid. I'm not sure if I'd switch if I had the chance to, because I'm getting great flight out of the fixed, but in the wind, it may help to shoot a sleek mechanical head. I just know if I do my part and put the broadhead in the right spot, it will do it's job. I cleaned up the blood on the deer because he was covered.

 

[esox_rox]

This will be my first year elk hunting, and I lose sleep thinking about this question. I have shot both mechanical and fixed blade broadheads with success on other game, so I believe in both types of products. While both mechanical and fixed blades can be tuned to fly with field points, I think mechanicals are more resilient to unplanned variables such as wind and non perfect form at time of shot, which makes them more "accurate" to me. With that said, for every mechanical success story, there is an equal horror story when it comes to elk. I am undecided at this point, but which ever broadhead you can be accurate and confident with is the best broadhead.

 

[ScottR]

Get something like a Grave Digger that is the best of both worlds.


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[brianboh]

I have yet to kill an animal with my bow but when I was getting outfitted for archery, I certainly faced this question and I was able to quickly answer it with another question:

There are many, many examples of mechanical blades working flawlessly but (outside of hunter error, a bad bow/arrow setup, not keeping blades sharp, etc...) are there any stories of a fixed blade that did not work as it was supposed to??

Point is, if you use fixed blades and do your part, you don't have to even have to consider broadhead failure, right?

I have cleaned several deer that have had fixed blades buried in bone in the past. Deer that had lived from these shots. I have also shot deer with mechanicals and not gotten the penetration. I shot a 180 inch whitetail at 15 yards and the arrow went in 2 inches. The deer turned to run and arrow fell out. However this was the old design for rages. The head broke in half where the oring used to be. However this design has been replaced. I do think a key with expandables is to have one that opens before it goes into the animal. I am a big fan of them but also a big fan with solid broadheads. Mine were not flying right last weekend but solely due to my bow not being tuned. Now with it tuned it flies flawlessly.

 

[fackelberry]

I have cleaned several deer that have had fixed blades buried in bone in the past. Deer that had lived from these shots. I have also shot deer with mechanicals and not gotten the penetration. I shot a 180 inch whitetail at 15 yards and the arrow went in 2 inches. The deer turned to run and arrow fell out. However this was the old design for rages. The head broke in half where the oring used to be. However this design has been replaced. I do think a key with expandables is to have one that opens before it goes into the animal. I am a big fan of them but also a big fan with solid broadheads. Mine were not flying right last weekend but solely due to my bow not being tuned. Now with it tuned it flies flawlessly.

Did you find this deer? Check to see what you " actually" hit? I've shot the old rage 3 blade design when they first came out. Shot a 147" whitetail quartering away at 60 yards, arrow went out through opposite shoulder and buried itself in the ground where i had to physically pull it out, not just pick it up. Shot a 29" wide 3x3 mule deer at 8 yards quartering to me, same head. Arrow went in shoulder blade and out guts on offside, then bounced off a rock and flipped up in the air. Neither of the heads broke as you described. I shoot 385gr. arrow at 65lbs at 280ft.sec. Sure the blades were bent, but no problems with the alluminum body. I think ALOT of bad publicity gets handed to mechanicals because of poor shot placement. If your arrow only went in 2in. I would bet you hit leg bone, or another hard bone and it broke the broadhead! No way that a good behind the shoulder hit in lungs and rib bones at 15yrds. would stop any sharp broadhead out of a newer, decent poundage bow. And the Rage broadheads DO open up before they enter the animal as stated from your post above. Both of the deer i shot had a ball of guts the size of a cantelope coming out of the hole the 3 blade made. The entrance on the whitetail, and the exit on the mule deer. The entrance on the mule deer was huge and looked like a gun shot. Both bucks ran 100-125 yards and piled up. Both one lung shots and liver from the angles. Broadheads did their job.

 

[bowrunner]

I shot my first animal with a mechanical broadhead this past season. Shot a nice mature whitetail with the rage hypodermic +p and had a complete pass through at about 35 yards. I just wanted to try something new, even though my shuttle t lock broadheads have never let me down in the past.

 

[CODAK]

Put any broadhead in the cage, have the patience to let the animal cease (unless you see it go down within eye distance) especially when they are amped up in the rut, and you will kill an elk. Sure they are tough animals, but a shot to the vitals and time to let it bleed out will trump any broadhead debate. Any broadhead will due, just choose which fits your set up. Huge 125 grain hypodermic supporter right here and plenty of positive results