Broadhead tuning

[tdcour]

I'm trying to get my broadheads to fly straight, but I am having a heck of a time doing it. I have read the easton broadhead tuning page, but that didn't really help. I have the broadheads shooting about 1" to the left of my field points at 20 yards which is not ok with me. I have the bow turned up as high as it will go (easton recommendation) and I REALLY don't feel like shooting 70ish pounds if I don't have to. That is just asking for me not to be able to get my bow back when I'm freezing in a tree stand or out of energy from a long stalk. I'd like to be somewhere in the mid to upper 60s for draw (I've noticed a couple of pounds can be a big difference at times). I'm shooting gold tip arrows with a 100 grain Muzzy MX-3. I've heard that the MX-3s just don't tune very well from time to time. I also have the occasional "flyer" that will end up 6 or so inches to the left and fly very badly. I think I need to square my arrows, but I already have the insert glued in. Is there a way I can square up the arrow with the insert in? Do I need to switch to a heavier broadhead? I have no issues with my field points flying straight or acting weird. Its only when I put my broadheads on that I see bad flight and a "new zero". As for the arrow spine, I'm dead on for the gold tip chart, so I don't really think I should have to change my arrow to adjust the spine.

Anyone have any tips?

 

[Wags]

heavier spined arrow is what solved all my issues. I was shooting easton 400's - the chart on the box said that was the correct spine for a 27.5 inch arrow at 66lbs. draw weight.. well i ran into the same issues as you. Bought some 340's, and immediately saw a huge difference in broadhead flight, while field tips still shot the same as before. Just my .02 cents. Its something to consider at the very least. Do you have access to other broadheads that you can test, maybe a buddies or something?

Ive been there, its very frustrating!

 

[jjenness]

Have you figured out what your FOC for your arrows is? After reading the Eastman's article about FOC I applied it to my arrow set up and I couldn't believe the difference it made. A good friend of mine is a muzzy die hard and he shoots every arrow with each broadhead to see which ones "like each other" and then he uses small washers to get the blades to line up with his vanes. It seems to work for him as I have seen him practice out to 70yds with his broadheads. As for me I could never get muzzy's to fly well so I quit using them. You can also make sure your arrows are squared on the nock side, as if they aren't that will change how the arrows leave your string.

 

[archer8524]

Try "walk back tuning". Start at twenty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to thirty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to forty yards and shoot another arrow using your thirty yard pin, and so on using the same pin. What you are trying to achieve is a straight vertical line with your arrows. For example if your line trails to the right then you need to move your rest slightly to the left. Start out in small increments (like a 16th") it doesn't take much.

 

[tdcour]

So should I be trying to tune with my practice blades or should I be shooting my real blades and just sharpen them? Is there enough of a difference between the two to worry about it?

Wags, just about everyone I know around here shoots some sort of expandable. One guy I know shoots fixed, but he is traditional with a recurve so its a little different.

Archer, are you talking shooting a group at each range or just moving back 10 yards with each shot?

 

[archer8524]

yeah move back 10 yards with each shot.

 

[Dan Man]

For my setup Slick Tricks shoot very close to my field points. The difference at 20 and 30 yard is almost unnoticeable - "true field point accuracy" as they say on the package. Beyond 30 yards...well, shooting a bow isn't like bench shooting a rifle with 12 sandbags. You give me that setup and I can "keyhole" my 7mag at 100yds.... Just MY story but I'm stickin to it! Good luck...

 

[jjenness]

Try "walk back tuning". Start at twenty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to thirty yards shoot an arrow using your thirty yard pin, move to forty yards and shoot another arrow using your thirty yard pin, and so on using the same pin. What you are trying to achieve is a straight vertical line with your arrows. For example if your line trails to the right then you need to move your rest slightly to the left. Start out in small increments (like a 16th") it doesn't take much.

Remember that you want to move your sights the same direction as your arrow are flying. ie, if arrows are flying right, move your sights right, arrows missing down move sights down, etc..

 

[gator7275]

what kind of bow are you shooting ? I've been shooting muzzy's for 25 yrs and never had a problem with them I shoot out to 65 yds and they fly same as my field points , one thing a lot of people dont realize if your bow is not tuned corrrectly your broad heads and field points wont shoot the same , i shoot a mathews single came I have found if my broad heads shoot lower than my field points after changing a string all i have to do is put a few twists in the buss cable cable and bam they right on the money far left and right a fine adjustment left to right on the rest also i shoot a 465 grain arrow with 13 on foc and mx3 muzzy's

 

[tdcour]

I'm shooting a bowtech insanity cpx at 68# draw. I paper tuned the bow and the arrow flight looks great with field points, but my muzzys are constantly hitting to the left. Does this mean I need to move my rest? How do you know if you need to tune your bow more? I'm actually working on getting my hands on some gold tip insert weights to increase my forward weight to get my FOC aroun 11. I'm at 9 right now.

 

[archer8524]

Yes, move your rest slightly to the right. Get it dialed in for that yardage and then move back 10 yards and try it again. Its key to move back because you might only hit a few inches to the left at 20 yards but at 40, 50, or 60 you could be off a foot or more. keep moving the rest a little bit until you get it dialed in at long range and you should still be fine up close. your just fine tuning your set up.

 

[tdcour]

I've been looking for more information on tuning the binary cam system in my insanity cpx, and everything I have seen so far says to set the rest for center shot, then if my arrow isn't flying right to give one side of the cable and extra twist on top and bottom. Has anyone had any experience with this? I used to shoot a mathews with the solo cam, so the binary cam system is new to me

 

[jjenness]

You should only be moving your rest to paper tune your bow. Once you get your arrow to fly straight, hence the reason you paper tune, then all you need to do is move your sight. You shouldn't be moving your rest to try and hit your target, you should only be moving your sights. Also, when you paper tune your bow, make sure you have field points on your arrow so that you don't have to try and distinguish if it was the broad head, or the arrow fletching, that made the cuts in the paper. You also want to make sure that you are not standing real close to the paper, because remember your arrow will have some flex in it as it leaves your bow. So be sure to stand back several feet to ensure your arrow has a chance to straighten out. Lastly, if all else fails you can have a friend shoot your bow through paper and see if the arrows are flying straight for them. If that is the case then it probably has something to do with your shooting form. Good luck.

 

[kjw]

I would do some experimenting with the weights, FOC can help. You can also square off your insert....I have the G5 ASD tool and if you flip it to the side that has the blade, it will work on your inserts. Take a sharpie and color the face of your insert, when its off your square. You may also look at what fletch your using. Just my experience but i shoot shuttle t's and with 2" vanes they shot awesome to 70 yards, I switched to a 3" vane and my groups held out to 85.
Have you shot past 20 yards?? Does it keep shooting left even worse or the same?? Lots of people will struggle to shoot broadheads at first, they are to excited and want to see what damage it does. Make sure your not pulling your head to peak and your follow through is true. Good luck to ya....hope some of these ideas help.

 

[ontarget7]

I'm trying to get my broadheads to fly straight, but I am having a heck of a time doing it. I have read the easton broadhead tuning page, but that didn't really help. I have the broadheads shooting about 1" to the left of my field points at 20 yards which is not ok with me. I have the bow turned up as high as it will go (easton recommendation) and I REALLY don't feel like shooting 70ish pounds if I don't have to. That is just asking for me not to be able to get my bow back when I'm freezing in a tree stand or out of energy from a long stalk. I'd like to be somewhere in the mid to upper 60s for draw (I've noticed a couple of pounds can be a big difference at times). I'm shooting gold tip arrows with a 100 grain Muzzy MX-3. I've heard that the MX-3s just don't tune very well from time to time. I also have the occasional "flyer" that will end up 6 or so inches to the left and fly very badly. I think I need to square my arrows, but I already have the insert glued in. Is there a way I can square up the arrow with the insert in? Do I need to switch to a heavier broadhead? I have no issues with my field points flying straight or acting weird. Its only when I put my broadheads on that I see bad flight and a "new zero". As for the arrow spine, I'm dead on for the gold tip chart, so I don't really think I should have to change my arrow to adjust the spine.

Anyone have any tips?

Will need to know your bow specs ? I know you mentioned the Insanity at 68# but need draw length as well ? Also will need arrow specs, you mentioned GT's but will need raw shaft length and what spine ?

Do you have access to a press ? I can walk you through tuning that bow no problem.

 

[tdcour]

Will need to know your bow specs ? I know you mentioned the Insanity at 68# but need draw length as well ? Also will need arrow specs, you mentioned GT's but will need raw shaft length and what spine ?

Do you have access to a press ? I can walk you through tuning that bow no problem.

Draw length is 28" with d-loop I'm at 28.5. Raw shaft length on my 340 Gold Tips is 28.5 and with broadhead and nock it is 30.5". I'm starting to mess a little with my FOC and overall weight. Right now my FOC is at 9% and my total weight is about 404 grains, but I'm trying to get my FOC to around the 11% mark. I'm doing some testing with different tip weights to see which flies the best and I'll stick with that. I'm guessing I'll add a little to the overall weight and be somewhere around the 10-12% FOC.

As for a bow press, I'm sure I could use the one at the archery shop I go to. I'm not sure if they will let me operate the press, but I'm sure if I tell them what to do they could do it for me.

 

[ontarget7]

Sorry bro PM's are cleared.
Call me today and I can go over tuning that with you.

Shane
970-301-0706

 

[ontarget7]

Keep me posted on your progress

 

[tdcour]

Will do! Planning on heading to the archery shop to to start tweaking either tonight or tomorrow night. Got my rest centered and sights readjusted yesterday in the backyard, so I'll start with the tuning when I get the bow press.

 

[tdcour]

Anyone have any help with total arrow weight? Right now I'm sitting at 404 gr for total arrow weight with a 9% FOC. Any suggestions on total arrow weight and FOC? I haven't shot my bow through a chrono, but its a Bowtech Insanity CPX (355 IBO), 28" draw, shooting a release, with a D-loop and peep sight. I'm trying to decide if it is worth adding the extra weight to get my FOC up and possibly increase penetration. Will the higher FOC help with broadhead tuning or will the 9% be good enough for the arrow to correct itself in flight? I'm also shooting Blazers with a wrap.