Best procedure for mounting a base?

Apr 7, 2011
67
0
Oregon
I was just hoping for some input on the best/correct way to mount a base to an action? I've heard things about using loctite, but also to be careful because there are certain kinds that are better than others. I figured it would be best to start my own thread. Thanks for the help
 

Drhorsepower

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May 19, 2011
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Reno, Nevada, United States
The cheapest way to do a good job is to epoxy them together if you are never going to take them off. Take a dremel and cut small "x"s into te top of your action, do the same to bottom of your base, then epoxy them together and screw it down.

The BEST way to do it is epoxy and use roll pins to secure your bases, or just roll pins, that involves taking your bases and action to a smith and Having them do machining.

I do the epoxy and dremel thing. It's cheaper and easier.
 

Bitterroot Bulls

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Apr 25, 2011
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Montana
Another good way is to bed the base with epoxy. It is similar to Dr. Horsepower's method, but does not require scoring the receiver, and the base can later be removed easily. Nice if you ever want to sell the rifle.

Step-by-step:

1. Remove action from rifle and place in a vise.

2. Degrease the base and receiver area completely with non-chlorine brake cleaner.

3. Tape the entire action with painters tape everywhere you don't want epoxy to get. Leave the portion of the receiver where the base will contact exposed.

4. Apply a good layer of release agent (Kiwi neutral shoe polish is a good one) to the exposed part of the receiver. Apply it to the inside of the screw holes. Cover the mounting screws as well. Polish the receiver to a shiny surface, leaving a thin, even layer.

5. Rough up the contact areas of the base with heavy sandpaper or light dremel work.

6. Mix your epoxy (Devcon Steel, Marine-Tex, JB Weld, etc.) according to the instructions (mix for a long time) and apply a thin, even layer to your base surface. Make sure to stay a little awayfrom the holes in the receiver.

7. Place the base on the release agent treated receiver surface. Use the mounting screws as indexing tools only. Screw in the mounting screws just enough to find resistance. Do not torque.

8. Excess epoxy will flow out the sides. Clean this up with q-tips and WD-40 as it comes out. When it no longer comes out, you are ready to wait.

9. Wait 24 hours. After 24 hours, remove the screws, and tap the base with a peace of wood. It will pop off, and the bottom of the base will be a perfect match to the receiver surface. There will be no damage to the receiver.

Disclaimer:

I am not a gunsmith. This is how I do it. There are no guarantees. You might glue your base to your receiver. You might get epoxy somewhere you did not want to. There are other ways. Attempt at your own risk!
 

jay

Active Member
Mar 10, 2011
462
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TriCountyNM
The most I've ever done to a base is Blue Loctite if even that...all I use are Leupold bases and rings and have NEVER had a scope come loose. The epoxy process would obviously be stronger than what I do, but I have not had any problems...
 

Bitterroot Bulls

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Apr 25, 2011
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Montana
The most I've ever done to a base is Blue Loctite if even that...all I use are Leupold bases and rings and have NEVER had a scope come loose. The epoxy process would obviously be stronger than what I do, but I have not had any problems...
For me, it isn't about having the scope coming loose. It is about stress-free mounting for maximum consistency, in any condition. Base mounting holes in receivers are not often perfectly aligned, especially on Remingtons. The mounting surfaces on the receiver and the base aren't a perfect match either. Bedding the base remedies these problems, and minimizes the torque on your scope, which maximizes its performance as well.

You don't need to do this to get good performance out of your rifle, but it helps maximize your rifle's consistent, reliable accuracy.
 

Ikeepitcold

Administrator
Staff member
Feb 22, 2011
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Reno Nv
The most I've ever done to a base is Blue Loctite if even that...all I use are Leupold bases and rings and have NEVER had a scope come loose. The epoxy process would obviously be stronger than what I do, but I have not had any problems...
I also only use Leupold bases and scopes. I have used super glue to lock everything together and screws can be removed and bases too without any damage.
 

Bitterroot Bulls

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Apr 25, 2011
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Montana
I bedded an EGW rail on my Savage 110 project today with Devcon bedding compound. I'll post a pic if I can if I can get it off the receiver tomorrow.
 

jay

Active Member
Mar 10, 2011
462
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TriCountyNM
For me, it isn't about having the scope coming loose. It is about stress-free mounting for maximum consistency, in any condition. Base mounting holes in receivers are not often perfectly aligned, especially on Remingtons. The mounting surfaces on the receiver and the base aren't a perfect match either. Bedding the base remedies these problems, and minimizes the torque on your scope, which maximizes its performance as well.

You don't need to do this to get good performance out of your rifle, but it helps maximize your rifle's consistent, reliable accuracy.
I see your point...
 

Bitterroot Bulls

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Apr 25, 2011
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Montana
Well, it came off nicely today. The screws came out easy (thanks to plenty of release agent). I put a block of wood against the back of the base. A sharp, short tap with a hammer, and it popped right off. The receiver was completely untouched. Looked like new. I totally forgot to take a pic of the bedded pads before mounting the rings and scope. Sorry. I would take it apart and take a photo, but I have it all like I wanted it, and troqued to spec. The base is completely true. I checked the TPS rings for contact, to see if I needed to lap or bed them, but nope, 100% contact. I think a whole lot of people could save lapping their rings if they bedded their bases.

I will be doing this again soon to another rifle, and might take step-by-step photos, if anyone is interested in seeing them ... and I remember to take them.
 
Last edited:
Apr 7, 2011
67
0
Oregon
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys! It sounds like there are plenty of ways to do it.
Bitterroot : I would like to see some pics of the next one you do. Also what do you mean by "lapping rings"?
 

Drhorsepower

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May 19, 2011
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Reno, Nevada, United States
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys! It sounds like there are plenty of ways to do it.
Bitterroot : I would like to see some pics of the next one you do. Also what do you mean by "lapping rings"?
Oh we have alot to teach you. The best way to see what lapping is is YouTube it. I am sure there are plenty of videos out there most likely.

Lapping is making the scope rings perfectly or as close to perfectly round, they can be oval shaped but not realize it. It ensures constant and consistent contact with your scope. It also doesn't put stress on your scope.
 

Bitterroot Bulls

Veteran member
Apr 25, 2011
2,326
0
Montana
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys! It sounds like there are plenty of ways to do it.
Bitterroot : I would like to see some pics of the next one you do. Also what do you mean by "lapping rings"?
I will try to remember to get those pics. I might just make a video, and post it.

Lapping rings involves using a lapping tool and paste abrasive to remove small amounts of material from the contact surfaces of the rings, so that most of the ring surface contacts the scope tube, providing the most secure hold and reducing unwanted stress on the scope.

Most quality rings are machined to tight tolerances, and don't require lapping on their own, but two part bases are rarely installed in perfect alignment, due to inaccuracy in the drilling and tapping of the receiver. This hole misalignment can also cause one piece bases to twist or warp to conform to the receiver holes, which causes the rings to go out of alignment, and require lapping.

Bedding a one piece base minimizes or eliminates receiver hole misalignment, and proper ring alignment follows. You can bed two piece bases in alignment by using a jig designed to align the bases, like a TPS "basebed" system.

http://www.basebed.com
 
Apr 7, 2011
67
0
Oregon
Ok, that makes sense. I realize that I have a lot to learn about all the technical things having to do with rifles which is why I ask the questions to make sure I do it right. I've spent most of my time with archery equipment, which is why I really appreciate all the help.
 

Drhorsepower

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May 19, 2011
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Reno, Nevada, United States
I didn't mean it to sound mean. I'm sorry man if I made it seem that way.

Here are the things I do to every rifle I build for myself or my friends/family. Now this is what I think is minimum necessary to build an accurate rifle, it is my opinion and some other peoples may differ. Right, wrong, indifferent.

Trigger-30-32oz. That is my preferance, a little light for most people I know.

Bed the action. On my weapons I buy a new stock with a full length bedding block if money is there to do it. If not I will install pillars at the very minimum.

Bed(procedure mentioned above) the scope base, I also buy one piece bases, that is my preference because it is one piece and obviously one piece is stronger than two pieces. I also bed it like I do because once I mount the base, I am never going to take it off, there is no reason.

Lap the rings for the above mentioned reasons.

I also bed the trigger guard.

I torque everything and I write down what everything is torqued to so I repeat the specs if I ever break it down.

Last but not least is brew up the perfect load choosing the bullet first.

Hope this helps, I know a lot of people do not do what I do but it works for me and sure as heck beats the big price tag I have seen on custom guns. I know that having an extremely accurate rifle is not a priority for most,shooting a stock gun and factory ammo is perfectly suitable, I mean really if you shoot 1 moa groups that is more than enough inside 300-400 yards in my book. Building accurate rifles is a hobby to me and I am passionate about it. I hope this helps.
 

jay

Active Member
Mar 10, 2011
462
0
TriCountyNM
Don't feel bad ORBBB5, i'm taking notes right along with you. Very good thread I'm learning alot myself. DRHP & BB thanks for being generous with your knowledge of these techniques. Like I stated before, all I've ever done is use the Leupold rings and bases and have never had problems, but have never really read into it as far as you guys, and it makes total sense to me. Is all this necessary to have an accurate rifle, probably not, but I see how it can eliminate many factors that can make an OK gun shoot that much better. Lets just say you guys might be getting some pm's from me on how to do mine...thanks
 

Bitterroot Bulls

Veteran member
Apr 25, 2011
2,326
0
Montana
Don't feel bad ORBBB5, i'm taking notes right along with you. Very good thread I'm learning alot myself. DRHP & BB thanks for being generous with your knowledge of these techniques. Like I stated before, all I've ever done is use the Leupold rings and bases and have never had problems, but have never really read into it as far as you guys, and it makes total sense to me. Is all this necessary to have an accurate rifle, probably not, but I see how it can eliminate many factors that can make an OK gun shoot that much better. Lets just say you guys might be getting some pm's from me on how to do mine...thanks
The secret custom gunmakers don't want you to know is that just about any factory rifle is capable of custom-level accuracy with a little work.

1. Properly bed the action in the stock.
2. Properly adjust the trigger.
3. True the action surfaces.
4. Properly mount the sighting optic.
5. Find an accurate load.

If these steps are taken with precision, you would be surprised what your rifle is capable of. 1,4, and 5 can be undertaken by just about anyone that is careful in how they approach a task. Unless you are a precision machinist, leave 3 to a qualified gunsmith. If you have a user-adjustable trigger you can do number 2 as well, but if it needs stoning/polishing head back to your smith.

Of course, the disclaimer applies! Attempt at your own risk.
 
Apr 7, 2011
67
0
Oregon
Drhp don't worry I didn't take it that way. I realize that I don't know that much about it and want to do it the best way to maximize the potential of my gun which is why I appreciate all the help.
 

Bitterroot Bulls

Veteran member
Apr 25, 2011
2,326
0
Montana
Allright guys,

I bedded a rail on my Model 7 today. I filmed the process and will cut a Youtube video of it. After I had it done and ready to cure, I though, "Why not?" and bedded the rings to my scope also. I need video of breaking them from the epoxy tomorrow, but then I will get the video together.