I just switched to four inch full helical feathers due to accuracy problems with my 100 gr Wasp broad heads. My arrows are now flying great. Im going to start fletching my own arrows. Where is the best place to order good quality feathers? Also what is the best glue for feathers. I have ordered a Blitzenburger fletcher with a full righthand helical clamp. Any advice on brands and types of feathers and glu would be appreciated.
Just switched ti 4 inch feathers
- Thread starter schl44
- Start date
Goat tuff glue sure seems to be popular for vanes. I'd go over to archery talk and do a little reading. That's also your best bet for finding a good deal on bulk feathers. Did you try tuning your bow to get that head to fly better? No doubt those long feathers will stabilize your arrow better, but it could simply be in your arrow rest. I've found that 70% of the time I tune a bow, I can get it shooting darts by working out issues in the rest and/or nock point. Good luck!
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I spent two 4 hr sessions at the pro shop where I bought the bow trying to tune the rest. Checked the timing on the cams and they were perfect.It shot perfect through paper. For what ever reason it was still making slight contact with the drop away rest. We tried moving the rest up, down, left right. Also tried rotating the cock feather in differnt positions. My arrows are splined for up to 70lbs and right now im shooting well below that,so that wasnt the issue either. I felt the 4 inch feathers were my last option. Being my bow shot perfect through paper , what direction would the rest need to be moved to eliminate the fletching contact?
Bonecollector
Veteran member
Possibley: The rest is still not "timed" on dropping out of the way, or the rest brake system is faulty.
If your current result is with bare shafts, feathers or vanes will not correct this issue. IMHO
If your current result is with bare shafts, feathers or vanes will not correct this issue. IMHO
If it is shooting perfect through paper, and you move the rest, it will no longer shoot perfect through paper. Typically!
Really, I think you are just trying to mask an issue with the switching to the feathers. If you cams are timed, your rest is "in tune", shafts are correctly spined, and you are shooting bullet holes in paper......then I would try a different method of tuning to re-affirm that you are actually in tune. Walk back is a good one. In short...hang a nail from a string on your target so that it intersects your "bull’s-eye", shoot at the BE at 10 yards using your first pin (20 yrd pin or whatever). Step back to 20 and repeat using the same pin. 30, and then 40, all the time using the same pin. Your arrows should be perfect left to right and jsut gaps from top to bottom. Like the buttons on a shirt.
Also check for cam lean. Cam lean is "OK" at either full draw or at rest, but not both. My bow is tuned very well and the cam leans to the left at rest. When I come to full draw it is straight as an arrow (PUN).....good luck!
Also.... a really good step you should take is to start at the basics. Check the axle to axle measurement and make sure it is correct. Measure the brace height ect. Just make sure it's at factory specs basically. Where are you located?
Really, I think you are just trying to mask an issue with the switching to the feathers. If you cams are timed, your rest is "in tune", shafts are correctly spined, and you are shooting bullet holes in paper......then I would try a different method of tuning to re-affirm that you are actually in tune. Walk back is a good one. In short...hang a nail from a string on your target so that it intersects your "bull’s-eye", shoot at the BE at 10 yards using your first pin (20 yrd pin or whatever). Step back to 20 and repeat using the same pin. 30, and then 40, all the time using the same pin. Your arrows should be perfect left to right and jsut gaps from top to bottom. Like the buttons on a shirt.
Also check for cam lean. Cam lean is "OK" at either full draw or at rest, but not both. My bow is tuned very well and the cam leans to the left at rest. When I come to full draw it is straight as an arrow (PUN).....good luck!
Also.... a really good step you should take is to start at the basics. Check the axle to axle measurement and make sure it is correct. Measure the brace height ect. Just make sure it's at factory specs basically. Where are you located?
Bonecollector
Veteran member
Im from Nelson Wisconsin. I agree there is still a contact issue with the rest, however the feathers are more forgiving of the contact and my arrows are now flying good with broad heads. The pro shop has checked all the things you mentioned. I have not tried the walk back tuning yet so I'll do that. Thanks for all the good pointers.
25contender
Veteran member
- Mar 20, 2013
- 1,638
- 90
Don't forget the basics. Make sure you knocking point is in the correct place. If it is not it will cause issues like yours.
packer58
Very Active Member
If your fall away rest is not timed properly you will have fletch contact. You didn't mention what type of rest your running, but typically you want the rest "if cable driven" to come to the fully cocked position in the last inch or two of your draw. If the rest comes up to soon your arrow will ride the rest to long and it can't get out of the way of the fletching fast enough.
Exactly what he said. The last part of your draw is when your rest should rise to "cocked" position.
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