I recently just purchased a couple of Benchmade knives. I'm looking for a good knife sharpener that will not remove blade material but is relatively easy to use. Blade edges are set at 30 degree angles for Benchmade. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good sharpener? I know that Benchmade has "Lifesharp" but I would like something simple, effective, and that will not damage the blade.
Knife Sharpener Advice
- Thread starter benjblt
- Start date
JimP
Administrator
One brand Worksharp. It is all I use anymore on all of my knives from Buck's to Gerber's
When you use the proper belt it takes off less metal than a Arkansas stone does. Yes, you can grind a knife down to nothing with it also if you use the wrong belt but you can do that with anything.
When you use the proper belt it takes off less metal than a Arkansas stone does. Yes, you can grind a knife down to nothing with it also if you use the wrong belt but you can do that with anything.
Slugz
Veteran member
Lansky makes one that fills the bill for a decent price. My buddy has one and likes it. Apex 1 is another that let's you lock in an angle, more $ as I recall. I have an old Warthog I like, new ones are adjustable to 30 degrees, not sure about mine. You just need to pick the correct type of stone/hone/steel for them if you are not wanting to remove much metal. Probably plenty of others others out there, just a couple I'm familiar with.
MtnBuck
Member
I second the Worksharp. It's fantastic. Stick with the finer belts and it won't remove any more material than necessary. Practice on your cheap knifes first.
Fink
Veteran member
I've got the Worksharp, and destroyed the blade on my favorite Benchmade. I sent the knife into Benchmade, and asked for a replacement. They replaced the blade, and all the guts, cleaned it all up, no charge.
I just send mine back to them every once in a while.
But, the Worksharp is pretty awesome.
I just send mine back to them every once in a while.
But, the Worksharp is pretty awesome.
JimP
Administrator
What did you use on the Worksharp to destroy a knife, the largest grit belt that they make? I have to admit that I have heard of one other person destroying a knife while using it but if you use it properly I don't see how.
6mm Remington
Very Active Member
I have the Lansky system and it works very well. I can really get a nice even edge on the knives and they are sharper than they have ever been! If the angles are messed up, usually from having someone hone them by hand on stones or a belt type of system, it might take a bit to get the perfect edge, but once I have that touch-ups are simple!!
I keep one in my camper just to have should I bugger up a blade out in the field where it needs to attention. If you get the Lansky I highly suggest you get the C-clamp that holds the system down on a counter or table. Really makes it simpler and easier, and probably safer too.
I keep one in my camper just to have should I bugger up a blade out in the field where it needs to attention. If you get the Lansky I highly suggest you get the C-clamp that holds the system down on a counter or table. Really makes it simpler and easier, and probably safer too.
dustin ray
Veteran member
Fink
Veteran member
I used the finest belt that came with it, just put a little too much pressure on it, when sharpening the point, and ground it down.
100% operator error..
100% operator error..
It's real easy Jim, press too hard/too long, wrong grit, etc... Ergo my preference for a hand powered tool for knives, call me silly or old fashioned. The key is using any tool properly, powered or not. I'll bet more knives have been ruined by hand sharpening than any other method, but if you really want to mess up a knife fast, real fast, use a motorized tool wrong.
JimP
Administrator
The Worksharp has a guide for the knife blade, you can't press too hard but you can use the wrong grit. And I guess if you are using it without the guide just on the tip you could grind a lot away. But still if you are using the correct grit it won't happen. I change out my fine grit belt after about every 3 or 4 knife sharpening, there just isn't any grit left on it to sharpen anything else.
brianboh
Active Member
I Use a workshoop every day cutting meat. I hit it couple times with a course. Double the amount with medium then double that amount with a fine. Son of a gon is razor sharp. If I just use the fine it does not sharpen it. It will with the medium but for better results using all three. Damn thing just does not hold an edge after.
6mm Remington
Very Active Member
In addition to the Lansky, KME makes an excellent product and IF I would have seen these first, I might have gone this route.
http://www.kmesharp.com/kme-knife-sharpening-system--diamond-kit.html
http://www.kmesharp.com/kme-knife-sharpening-system--diamond-kit.html
This looks like a pretty sweet sharpener. Probably the best ive seen, really a great design! The only problem is that Benchmade needs 15 degrees and it only goes as low as 17.
badgerbob
Active Member
I've always just used a soft Arkansas stone and a little elbow grease. Wasn't too hard to learn and I just sit around watching tv and sharpen. Gets them razor sharp and I kind of enjoy doing it. I have three stones. Course, Medium, and fine. Most of the time just use the med. and fine. Use same on my broadheads too.
Hilltop
Veteran member
6mm Remington
Very Active Member
benjblt I have a Benchmade mini-barrage and have sharpened a couple for friends. I sharpened them at 20 degrees on each side and that seemed pretty close to what the factory edge was. I use a black marker and run it along a section of the edge on each side in the middle of the blade. When the ink dries, then I try a few light strokes to determine what the angle of the factory edge is. If the black ink is coming off the full width of the edge I know it's on. If it's just the very end of the blade edge where ink is coming off, the angle is too sharp. If it's the upper portion of the edge where it first starts on the knife blade, then the angle is too shallow.
I have learned to do that on any knife I have not sharpened before because it's really difficult to just eyeball them to determine what the edge angle is at. ON some lesser quality knives, you would be amazed at how much difference there is from one side of the knife to the other. Sometimes it takes a lot of honing to get both sides perfect and matched up. If it were me, I would not worry about 2 degrees difference from what Benchmade does their blades at and the shallowest angle you can do on the sharper is not quite that. You will get a very nice edge.
If I remember on the Lansky instructions, they recommend the 17 degree edge for fillet type knives that do not see heavy use and tough cuts on meat. Twenty degrees is suggested for most kitchen knives and such, and 25 degrees is for pocket knives and outdoor knives, hunting knives. Either 20 or 25 is what I use for my pocket and hunting knives. 20 is for most of my kitchen knives and I have one fillet knife at 17 degrees.