Hey all, new to Montana and new to elk hunting. Just wondering everyone's opinion on arrow choice? I've always used a lighter weight arrow (whitetail hunting), is it advantageous to use a heavier arrow for a bigger animal to get more penetration? Or is shot placement what makes the biggest difference? Thanks
Arrows for elk?
- Thread starter C_Dick_run
- Start date
Slugz
Veteran member
Heavier all the way. It can be debated at times so I always keep this link to review. Pretty good info and its broken down depending on how much math you want to get into.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_5.htm
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_5.htm
Bonecollector
Veteran member
Unless you plan to shoot PAST 35 yards, it will not matter. Beyond this range, the heavier arrow WILL make a difference, via penetrate better.
I've read all the literature out there and I have ran extensive testing on the matter and this was/is my conclusion. BTW: I'm a self-proclaimed archery junkie.
I've read all the literature out there and I have ran extensive testing on the matter and this was/is my conclusion. BTW: I'm a self-proclaimed archery junkie.
Hilltop
Veteran member
I have gone to a little heavier arrow for all my hunting. I use the Easton Axis (340) arrows at 9.5 GPI. This makes my 30" hunting arrow about 400 grains total. These are a little heavier and are smaller in diameter than what I was shooting- the PSE Radial X-Weave Pros at 8.6GPI. My old hunting arrow weight was just under 375. It seems like a small increase but it has made a significant difference to me, even on deer sized game.
Catahoula12
Very Active Member
Don't make yourself nuts over your setup. All the factors, draw weight, draw length and overall arrow weight can be very scientific. Spine and arrow straightness is in the mix. My thing is to find out what you shoot with confidence with no question in your mind about "is my arrow heavy enough?" Personally, as an example, my arrow overall weight is approx 449.875gr that have taken both elk and mule deer here in Arizona. If your current setup is just confidence at any range for you then stay with it. Good luck chasing elk in the rut...
Bonecollector
Veteran member
brianboh
Active Member
Heavier is the way to go. It will be slower but ALOT more kinetic energy=better penetration. In my opinion the FMJ is the only way to go. It will slam em. Punch through bone shoulders etc. Think of it as a pencil hitting a target and a telephone poll hitting the same target.
Good feedback here, definitely go with a heavier arrow. Rule of thumb I used depending on my bow specs is 400 grains and up. I usually run a 420 grain arrow for elk. Anything between 420 and 480 grains is good and you won't lose too much of your trajectory and keep decent speed.
nicktrehearne
New Member
I agree with most here - heavy is the way to go. In the event you hit a shoulder blade (or any other bone), a heavy arrow with a good broadhead has higher momentum to break through and keep on going than a light arrow.
COElkFreak
New Member
- Jun 21, 2011
- 16
- 0
I like a nice heavier arrow for the better penetration and hits a lot harder too. I shoot the FMJ and my arrows weight around 465 grains.
Heavier and what he said. I'm running 420gr and this year I might add weight to get it up around 500gr. Much better penetration. Not much difference in drop inside 40 yards. After that is spreads your pins out a little more.
CabinetBulls
New Member
- May 6, 2016
- 8
- 0
Best thing you can do for yourself is shoot through a chrono and know your speed exactly. Don't go off of IBO speed calculators because they don't account for all variables. Once you know your speed plug the speed and arrow weight into a kinetic energy AND momentum calculator. You will see with different arrow weights what happens to kinetic energy and momentum as arrow weight increases or decreases. Kinetic energy is not the only game in town when it comes to penetration. With my setup a 350 grain arrow produces 100 ft lbs of kinetic energy but fairly low momentum. Momentum is best described for the archery world as how hard it is to stop the arrow. By plugging different chrono speeds and arrow weights in the calculator you will see that as you go heavier your momentum increases and your kinetic energy slightly decreases due to loss of some speed. Speed cannot be ignored otherwise we would all be shooting 3 foot chunks of rebar. The best thing to do is find out for your setup where the sweet spot is for arrow weight so you get the best of both worlds regarding kinetic energy and momentum. A good momentum number is around .56 minute lbs and good kinetic energy for elk is as high as you can get without losing too much momentum. A good starting point is around 420 grains for most modern compound bows. I shoot a 426 grain arrow at 315 fps for kinetic energy of 92 and momentum of .56. That was the sweet spot for my setup. Don't listen to guys that reference a car vs a semi or a pencil vs a telephone pole because that is an absolutely rediculous comparison... There are 7000 grains in a pound so 25 grains difference is A LOT different weight percentage than a those examples. Light and fast gives you good trajectory and that's it. So practice judging yardage and use a range finder and shoot a little heavier of an arrow with confidence that you have the best arrow for your setup
Hilltop
Veteran member
CabinetBulls, Nice first post. Would appreciate it if you would leave an introduction in the new members section. Guys like you willing to help out are very appreciated here at Eastman's.
I'm new to the Archery thing but I'm enjoying it. I'm going to try some Carbon Express, 350 spine and 125 gr field points and see how the group. I'm on my second set of arrows and they are horrible. My first set group awesome. It's been fun learning about archery and it surprises me on how the most small things make such big differences.
I don't know if this helps as it is not very technical but I shoot a Gold Tip Hunter arrow. I don't know how heavy it is, but I can tell you it has worked good for me on a couple of bulls and various other critters. This arrow topped with a muzzy 100 gr. broadhead out of my mathews bow set at 70 pounds has accounted for a couple of bulls. Good luck! P.S. I know this is talking about arrows, not broadheads, but the old cut-on-contact broadheads out penetrate my muzzy broadheads.
CabinetBulls
New Member
- May 6, 2016
- 8
- 0
Arrows are cut to 26" I shoot a Mathews No Cam and its poundage is at 70.
I picked up 6 Gold Tip Peirce today. They are a micro shaft so I bet I will hve to adjust my D loop but I'm looking forward to shooting them. They are 400 spine arrow.
CabinetBulls
New Member
- May 6, 2016
- 8
- 0
Being only 26" the .400 spine should be ok...if they don't do well for you try a 100 gr tip and that will strengthen the spine a little... Have you tried paper tuning any of your arrows yet? The 350 carbon express should have been a decent arrow so I am wondering if lightening the tip would help on those... I always go toward the stiff side on my arrows and different manufacturers can vary... All of my arrows are
either a .340 or a .300 spine... 70# bow 27.25" arrows
wy-tex
Veteran member
A good sturdy broadhead is a must also. Cutting tip works best for us but we shoot trad. Shot placement is key also. Your whitetail arrows will work fine just tune them to the broadhead. My 500 gr woodies nearly passed through a shiras moose on my first bowkill.