Time to Join the Hand Loading Ranks

[Colorado Cowboy]

And if you really get serious about accuracy & reloading, keep you brass in lots, by manufacturer. Some mfgrs brass has thicker walls, just weight them and you will see what I mean. Why does this matter? Thicker walls mean less volume inside the case, less volume can result in a slight increase in chamber pressure when you shoot. Velocity will change.

Just sayin...........

 

[Mule3006Elk]

And if you really get serious about accuracy & reloading, keep you brass in lots, by manufacturer. Some mfgrs brass has thicker walls, just weight them and you will see what I mean. Why does this matter? Thicker walls mean less volume inside the case, less volume can result in a slight increase in chamber pressure when you shoot. Velocity will change.

Just sayin...........

What he said. When you buy your brass, for example Nosler, make sure the lot is the same.

 

[Slugz]

Counting hairs here..........but I'm guilty of it .........even within the same lot I've found variances.......I weigh each shell and sort them.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Counting hairs here..........but I'm guilty of it .........even within the same lot I've found variances.......I weigh each shell and sort them.

When I used to shoot competition bench rest I used water to fill each case and measured the volume. I used to weigh every bullet, measure the powder to no variance (no +/- .01 of a grain!) and a lot of other crazy stuff trying to eliminate the variables, not even mentioning everything tricked out on the rifle.

Yep...counting hairs!!!

 

[Timberstalker]

I don't have the hair counting patience. I'm not very particular with my reloads, they seem to get the job done though. I haven't shot factory ammo in over a decade, I'm sure some shoot better than my hand loads! Good thing I'm not a competition shooter, I'm just a hunter.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

I still shoot competition pistol and cowboy action shooting. Get to shoot a lot the rest of the time when I'm not hunting. Keeps me sharp too, for hunting. I'm 74 years old now and I need all the practice and shooting I can get!!!

 

[Timberstalker]

I still shoot competition pistol and cowboy action shooting. Get to shoot a lot the rest of the time when I'm not hunting. Keeps me sharp too, for hunting. I'm 74 years old now and I need all the practice and shooting I can get!!!

I have no doubt you can out shoot me CC! I don't shoot that much these days, I shot my bow a few times throughout the year and my rifle once before I went hunting. I'm still shooting bullets I re loaded in 2010!

 

[Musket Man]

My loading so far has not been for accuracy. I have mostly loaded for my old guns. Some are not so popular calibers anymore and I started reloading so I could afford to shoot them. For the most part Im happy if the gun doesnt blow up and a bullet comes out the correct end of the barrel

 

[NorthCountry]

Thank you to everybody again for all the great posts. I'm going to take this slow and try to learn as much as I can along the way. I'm sure I'll be back with questions. Thanks again to everybody and Happy New Year.

 

[usmc99]

I forgot to mention the case cleaner I got. The frankfort arsenal rotary tumbler. This thing is VERY impressive. Inside and out the brass comes out absolutely immaculate. I couldn't believe how well it worked and the whole process was very easy.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

I forgot to mention the case cleaner I got. The frankfort arsenal rotary tumbler. This thing is VERY impressive. Inside and out the brass comes out absolutely immaculate. I couldn't believe how well it worked and the whole process was very easy.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

One other thing, media for the case cleaner....I use Lizard Litter that I get from a pet shop. 40# bag for about 15.00. The litter is made from crushed walnut shells.

 

[usmc99]

One other thing, media for the case cleaner....I use Lizard Litter that I get from a pet shop. 40# bag for about 15.00. The litter is made from crushed walnut shells.

This one uses water, a cleaning solution and stainless steel pins. Works amazing.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[PhilW55]

Be careful buying used dies, I got a set of 06 dies that someone had filed down about 0.050" and when I set up for sizing they were all too short at the shoulder. Didn't notice till firing them when the primers were blowing out. Don't go for the high production stuff since you are only loading a couple hundred a year, hand process the brass gives you a better feel of the cases. A beam scale is just as accurate as a digital one, a Wilson case trimmer is nice but you have to get the different case holders so any other rotary case trimmer should be all inclusive. Get an O-frame press, and not a C-frame. Lyman #55 powder measure works great, 3 adjustment slides. Spend your money and effort on case prep.

 

[amoor983]

IF you are just starting, or just reloading for hunting and targets at small volume, much of this stuff you don't NEED. I clean my brass with steel wool, I don't clean the flash hole (only minimally clean the pocket with a neck chamfer tool), and I rarely use my case trimmer any more. As long as the brass is within spec and fits in my chamber, I just use the deburr tool to make them all the same length (I believe this extends neck life as well vs. trim-to length). I trickle powder with a baby spoon. I rarely use my powder thrower, because I measure every charge anyway. I do, however, use a bullet comparator to measure overall length to ogive and a headspace kit to measure brass length to shoulder (Hornady). These tools are very useful when trying new bullets and getting a new rifle (or die), respectively. I seem to get the best accuracy gains from the right bullet, powder charge, and the right OAL. I am shooting well under MOA at the range, which is better than I can attain in nearly all hunting situations.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

IF you are just starting, or just reloading for hunting and targets at small volume, much of this stuff you don't NEED. I clean my brass with steel wool,

I think you are missing the point. I really don't worry about the outside of the case, how it looks cosmetically has absolutely no effect on accuracy. For me the important part of case cleaning is the inside of the case. Powder residue, oxidation or debris can de left in the case that you can easily miss. A tumbler or other means of case cleaning like mentioned in earlier posts will get everything...inside & out.

 

[sigpros]

Really it's all about the same. I use RCBS for my single stage stuff with RCBS hand primer and case prep center. I use all dillon stuff on my pistol loading. I have dies from about every brand. I do like my redding dies. I put the Hornady quick change system on my rock chucker and I like it a lot. Hit up Craigslist,ebay,and any forum you are on.

 

[ulmer]

I'am the odd duck here I use the Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press Kit I know you said not looking for a kit but every thing that came in it was enough to get me started. I use RCBS dies tho. I have upgraded to a scheels brand auto charge Powder Measure. and if the hornady hand primer didn't come in the kit I would get a RCBS my brother has one (correct me if im wrong RCBS guys) but I don't think he needs to put a shell holder in the RCBS hand primer Hornady you do.

1 other thing that will help is lube the case befor you run it in the die's the brass will get stuck if you don't and can be a pain to get out if your lucky and do get it out I use one shot few diff. kinds out there tho

After i get a batch of test loads done i use a Permanent marker and mark the primer right down all the info for that round powder bullet weight ect. and put same color mark next to it i have a note book full of test loads
when i go to the range i have blue red green ect. marked on targets shoot the color primer to match the marked target when the test loads have all been shot pick the best group when you get home can match that color target to the color in the book and everthing is there to repeat
I always take load data out of the reloading handbook for the brand of bullet im using have seen a lot where people post what load they use and i look it up and its hotter the what the book calls for not saying they don't know what there doing to work up one that hot but i always play it safe start out off the handbooks lot of good info in them to.
once you start reloading its hard to stop always want to tinker with a load to try and make it a little better have fun

 

[Umpqua Hunter]

I don't clean the flash hole (only minimally clean the pocket with a neck chamfer tool)

I am far from an expert but in my research a uniform flash hole is critical if the goal is extreme accuracy. The flash hole throttles the rate the primer flash reaches the powder. All flash holes are not the same, even in the same lot of brass. For the price of a very inexpensive tool or you can even get away with a drill bit in a small chuck, that variable can be controlled.

PS: As a correlation, in muzzleloading, the flash hole is the "root of all evil" and something I pay considerable attention to.

 

[NorthCountry]

Thanks again for all the info guys. Umpqua Hunter - did you notice any considerable accuracy improvement in your groups after starting to hand load a couple years ago?

 

[NorthCountry]

Umpqua - Any particular reason you went with hand tools over a case prep center/station?