- Jul 26, 2011
- 45
- 0
Time to Join the Hand Loading Ranks
- Thread starter NorthCountry
- Start date
Slugz
Veteran member
NC,
When properly done depending on the type of bullets you use, COAL, and most importantly how far you set off the rifling......you will always see a tighter group with handloads. You have to spend the time and get your ingredients/measurements personalized for your gun, which may mean a good amount of range time. Due to the many many type model guns out there now in the same caliber factory loads must fit them all.......this directly equates to more times than not....handloads will outshoot factory loads when properly prepared.
When properly done depending on the type of bullets you use, COAL, and most importantly how far you set off the rifling......you will always see a tighter group with handloads. You have to spend the time and get your ingredients/measurements personalized for your gun, which may mean a good amount of range time. Due to the many many type model guns out there now in the same caliber factory loads must fit them all.......this directly equates to more times than not....handloads will outshoot factory loads when properly prepared.
This one
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/713881/frankford-arsenal-platinum-series-rotary-case-tumbler-110-volt
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
az.mountain runner
Active Member
Well everyone has given you all the specs for super loading but if you are just interested in hand loading 2 or 3 boxes of ammo at a time I just use the old fashion lee loader one shell at a time I'll wait until I have a few boxes to reload clean,trim ,size and I use a electronic scale to measure powder . All my loads shoot great it takes me about 1 hour per box. But to me it is relaxing to do and I like to take my time and do them right, the system is super cheap to be able to do 3 or 4 caliber you don't break the bank
Aught6Fan
Member
NC,
Thanks for starting the thread.
Been thinking of pull the trigger on this myself. Lots of good info here.
Thanks for starting the thread.
Been thinking of pull the trigger on this myself. Lots of good info here.
ThreeTikkas
Member
- Mar 24, 2012
- 141
- 0
This is why I hand load. An infinite number of charge and bullet combinations. That can yield results like this.
ThreeTikkas
Member
- Mar 24, 2012
- 141
- 0
ThreeTikkas
Member
- Mar 24, 2012
- 141
- 0
Thanks boiler. I've had a half dozen T3s in various chamberings. The 7 Rem mag is a real hole driller. I have had a 300 WSM T3 also. It was the fussiest to load for. Of all the T3s I've had ( 22/250, 25/06, 7 Rem mag, 30/06, 300 WSM, and 338 Win mag), the 7 RM was the the best shooter. All were well under one MOA.
mgorm16640
Member
I have been reloading for around 20 years of so and would recommend a subscription to Handloader magazine by Wolf publishing as well. Reading the manuals is great and necessary to get the reloading process down, but I never knew there was so much I didn't know about reloading until I started reading this magazine.
- Jul 26, 2011
- 45
- 0
I'm learning more and more about this pretty cool hobby... thanks again for all the replies. How many of you guys outside neck turn your brass? What's the difference between outside neck turning and inside neck reaming?
Also, how do most of you size your brass when building top shelf hunting loads... full length, bump, or neck sizing?
Finally, for seating dies, do you recommend competition type dies with the microadjustment knobs or just the plain seating dies?
Also, how do most of you size your brass when building top shelf hunting loads... full length, bump, or neck sizing?
Finally, for seating dies, do you recommend competition type dies with the microadjustment knobs or just the plain seating dies?
Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
The only time I do any neck reaming would be when I have to make brass, one caliber out of another. If you are using brass that you fired out of your rifle, you will find the only thing necessary is oal trimming after you have sized the brass. This is dependent on a number of factors, chamber size, how hot the load is and how much pressure you get in the chamber. High chamber pressures will cause the brass to stretch, increasing oal.
You are going to get a number of different answers on sizing. I only neck size, and that's after the brass has been fire formed in the rifle. Once you fire form the brass, it fits itself to the variations of the chamber. Every rifle will be slightly different, but within tolerances.
I use regular seating dies. I keep a master dummy round for every caliber/rifle and readjust my dies to that master prior to every reloading session. I have one for every different bullet I use and reset for each one as needed. When I was competitive bench rest shooting, I used the micro adjustable seating die, but for me I just don't need it for my hunting loads, and they shoot .75 moa.
Last edited:
Slugz
Veteran member
- Jul 26, 2011
- 45
- 0
Really enjoying all the responses, thanks everyone.
What brand of brass do most of you recommend?
What brand of brass do most of you recommend?
Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
Over the years, for me brass is brass. I used to load lots of military surplus brass, but not anymore. I just don't shoot the same calibers that they use and don't make any brass for wildcats now ( except for my .220 Ackley Improved Swift I make from factory brass).
- Jul 26, 2011
- 45
- 0
CC - are you ever concerned that a neck sized only case will not load well in your chamber when you need it to in a hunting situation? One of my manuals says that FL or Bump sizing is a little less risky for hunting loads and neck sizing is more for bench loads. I don't know, I'm just wondering what you've experienced. How many times do you neck size before going back and doing a FL sizing?
Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
First, the brass has all been shot in a particular rifle and will only be used in that rifle as long as I have it. Then I run every piece of reloaded ammo thru the rifle and close the bolt (everything I shoot is a bolt except for a Ruger #1 single shot). Never had a problem hunting yet.
- Jul 26, 2011
- 45
- 0
Thanks CC.
What do you guys like for case mouth chamfering and deburring tools? Get one of the power case prep centers with an electric motor or hand tools like those by Sinclair?
Also I’ve read a lot on the rave reviews of the Wilson Stainless Ultimate Trimmer… is this trimmer appreciably better than the standard Wilson Case Trimmer Kit? They are about $50 off in cost.
What do you guys like for case mouth chamfering and deburring tools? Get one of the power case prep centers with an electric motor or hand tools like those by Sinclair?
Also I’ve read a lot on the rave reviews of the Wilson Stainless Ultimate Trimmer… is this trimmer appreciably better than the standard Wilson Case Trimmer Kit? They are about $50 off in cost.
Colorado Cowboy
Super Moderator
I use and old RCBS chamfer/deburr combo tool I've had for years. It does inside & outside with a spin of the wrist. Pretty simple and cheap too.