Fink
Veteran member
I think I'd just buy the bow and gear from the pro shop where I just spent a few hours trying out all his bows for free.
Starting out with a bow.
- Thread starter Musket Man
- Start date
hoshour
Veteran member
Bows only become "worthless" as investments, like the vast majority of cars, but you have to ask yourself whether you are buying it as an investment or a tool. I do sympathize with you somewhat, which is why I always buy used bows a year or two old, like the Elite Pulse I shoot now. I could sell it for not that much less than what I bought it for two years ago, which would not be the case if I bought new.
I would visit more than one pro shop because most shops focus on one or two brands. And, the advice to start out with less poundage and a forgiving bow are both good.
You probably will change bows or at least change out components as you get more into it. Also, hanging other archers and doing things like 3D shoots will really accelerate your learning curve.
I would visit more than one pro shop because most shops focus on one or two brands. And, the advice to start out with less poundage and a forgiving bow are both good.
You probably will change bows or at least change out components as you get more into it. Also, hanging other archers and doing things like 3D shoots will really accelerate your learning curve.
Fink
Veteran member
It all comes down to what you want out of the bow. A higher% let-off will lose a little speed on the top end, but you'll be able to hold the bow steady, for a longer period of time. I'd take steady over top end speed.
Thanks! that makes sense. I found this site that lists alot of pro shops on it. There are more around here then I thought. Ill have to go visit some of them! http://www.archery-stores.com/
MM im excited for you man, youll love it!!! when it comes to let off, you mentioned youd be hunting idaho... obviously the higher the let off the easier itll will be to hold your bow at full draw for longer periods of time, in idaho you cant have any let off higher than 85% look for year old even 2 year old modles, still top of the line and you get for so much cheaper. this is a touchy topic for alot of guys on here that buy the best and newest every year the the most expensive bow wont help ya shoot better, your form helps you shoot better. i shoot just as good with an old alpine from the 90's as i do with my new pse. the new pse just looks a hell of alot cooler..... please direct any negative feedback on what i said to my pm
haha
haha
wolftalonID
Very Active Member
Fink, You sound like a pro-shop owner... lol.
All shops pro-shop or box/sports stores let you try them out for free. The last friend of mine I helped set up on a bow, we saved him $340.00 by shopping out the components and bow he wanted over the same exact pieces at the pro-shop. The pro-shop owner wasn't upset at all when we came in with them, he just charged him $50 for set up time, and my buddy bought a membership to the range while he was there.
How is paying the higher price at a pro-shop worth the loss in my wallet or anyones worth it? If pro-shops would not charge full MAP retail price for their product, it would make more sense, but they don't, and I like my money to stretch. My friend saved $290 overall even after paying to have it set up correctly. That is not chump change in my books.
If your worried about warranty work if something goes wrong, any registered pro shop, as is registered with the manufactures of the product needing attention, can do the work under warranty and get paid, they should not care where you bought it from.
All shops pro-shop or box/sports stores let you try them out for free. The last friend of mine I helped set up on a bow, we saved him $340.00 by shopping out the components and bow he wanted over the same exact pieces at the pro-shop. The pro-shop owner wasn't upset at all when we came in with them, he just charged him $50 for set up time, and my buddy bought a membership to the range while he was there.
How is paying the higher price at a pro-shop worth the loss in my wallet or anyones worth it? If pro-shops would not charge full MAP retail price for their product, it would make more sense, but they don't, and I like my money to stretch. My friend saved $290 overall even after paying to have it set up correctly. That is not chump change in my books.
If your worried about warranty work if something goes wrong, any registered pro shop, as is registered with the manufactures of the product needing attention, can do the work under warranty and get paid, they should not care where you bought it from.
Don K
Very Active Member
I'm like the others I could talk on this forever!!! I started at 14 and I'm 48 now and love it.
One thing to check on the let-off is make sure you check the states your planning on hunting as some it is not legal to use 80% let-off. If you decide on a compound a longer bow is a bit more forgiving than a real short bow (axle to axle)
See if there is any bow-hunting clubs in your area. Is there a state organization that has anything planned? Best bet is to get along side someone that bow-hunts and learn from them. Shooting the bows (like said above) is a BIG help.
Bows are like trucks (Chevy, Ford, Dodge) everyone like theirs for different reasons and all the ones that are out there today are good. You don't have to spend a fortune to get out there and experience bow-hunting.
One thing to check on the let-off is make sure you check the states your planning on hunting as some it is not legal to use 80% let-off. If you decide on a compound a longer bow is a bit more forgiving than a real short bow (axle to axle)
See if there is any bow-hunting clubs in your area. Is there a state organization that has anything planned? Best bet is to get along side someone that bow-hunts and learn from them. Shooting the bows (like said above) is a BIG help.
Bows are like trucks (Chevy, Ford, Dodge) everyone like theirs for different reasons and all the ones that are out there today are good. You don't have to spend a fortune to get out there and experience bow-hunting.
ssliger
Very Active Member
Unless you are willing to jump in way over your head, I would buy the bow at a good local pro shop, and then all the accessories wherever you get the best deal. By buying the bow from your local pro shop they will be able to help get it tuned and fix any issues, usually for free. I an not sure you would get that from a box store. I used to spend hours at my local shop shooting, picking his brain for tips and tactics and learning how he tuned the bow. I give him credit for my success this last fall. It was my first year I took off time for archery and scored.
Work2hunt
Veteran member
Another note on pro shops. If cabelas or the other big stores are not close and you need your bow worked on I know some bow shops that will really drag there feet if you didn't get the bow from them.
CrimsonArrow
Very Active Member
Don K is right about state regs. If you plan to hunt Idaho with your bow, forget any cam with 80% letoff. I had to swap the 80% cam for a 65% in my Switchback when I elk hunted there in 2006.
wolftalonID
Very Active Member
Thats hard to believe. I have lived here since 1999, hunted archery exclusively here the last eight years, and this is taken from the current rules from 2013 right off the web page and its not any different than a book from 2006.
Archery Equipment
In any hunt, including general any-weapon seasons and short- range hunts, it is unlawful to pursue or kill big game animals:
• With arrows or bolts having broadheads measuring less than 7/8 inch in width and having a primary cutting edge less than 0.015 inch thick.
• With any bow having a peak draw weight of less than 40 pounds up to or at a draw of 28 inches or any crossbow having a peak draw weight of less than 150 pounds.
• With an arrow or bolt wherein the broadhead does not precede shaft and nock.
• With any chemicals or explosives attached to the arrow or bolt.
• With arrows or bolts having expanding broadheads.
• With arrows or bolts having barbed broadheads, which is a broadhead with any portion of which forms an angle less than 90 degrees with the shaft or ferrule.
• With any electronic or tritium-powered device attached to an arrow, bolt or bow. Except disabled archery permit holders may use a nonmagnifying sight with battery powered or tritium lighted reticles.
• With any bow capable of shooting more than one arrow at a time.
• With any compound bow set at more than 85 percent let- off.
• With an arrow or bolt, and broadhead with a combined total weight of less than 300 grains.
• With an arrow less than 24 inches from broadhead to nock inclusive.
• With a bolt (crossbow) less than 12 inches from broadhead to nock inclusive.
Archery Equipment
In any hunt, including general any-weapon seasons and short- range hunts, it is unlawful to pursue or kill big game animals:
• With arrows or bolts having broadheads measuring less than 7/8 inch in width and having a primary cutting edge less than 0.015 inch thick.
• With any bow having a peak draw weight of less than 40 pounds up to or at a draw of 28 inches or any crossbow having a peak draw weight of less than 150 pounds.
• With an arrow or bolt wherein the broadhead does not precede shaft and nock.
• With any chemicals or explosives attached to the arrow or bolt.
• With arrows or bolts having expanding broadheads.
• With arrows or bolts having barbed broadheads, which is a broadhead with any portion of which forms an angle less than 90 degrees with the shaft or ferrule.
• With any electronic or tritium-powered device attached to an arrow, bolt or bow. Except disabled archery permit holders may use a nonmagnifying sight with battery powered or tritium lighted reticles.
• With any bow capable of shooting more than one arrow at a time.
• With any compound bow set at more than 85 percent let- off.
• With an arrow or bolt, and broadhead with a combined total weight of less than 300 grains.
• With an arrow less than 24 inches from broadhead to nock inclusive.
• With a bolt (crossbow) less than 12 inches from broadhead to nock inclusive.
No offense taken, and I understand your point that they will continue to drop in value. As far as trade-in value yes, they will be "worthless" in time.
CrimsonArrow
Very Active Member
tdub24
Veteran member
Musket Man, if you are looking to learn some of the more technical terms and what not, you can look at www.huntersfriend.com and read up on all kinds of components that comes with archery hunting. I know this sight helped me considerably when starting out for the first time. Like all the others have said, shoot multiple bows and pick what feels best. Best of luck!
Thanks tdub24! Alot of great info on that site! I will look up some state regs too. I want to start out in Idaho but I might want to go to some other states or here in Washington in the future.
Go to a local pro shop and shoot as many bows as you can from different brands and price points. There's some real good bows that companies put out, that aren't their top of the line flagship bows. Like the Bowtech assassin for example. While at the pro shop they will (should) help you with your draw length and weight. The BT assassin has draw length adjustment. But I would definitely shoot as many different bows as I could until you find one that feels and fits you good. Ignore the price while your doing this if you can haha. Also make sure you buy the correct spine of arrow for your set up. If and when you do decide to buy, I can help you with arrow selection. I also have software that I can run that will tell is what spine you should be shooting for your draw weight and length. If your arrow is too weak spined, you'll shoot like crap and won't be able to get your bow tuned properly. Good luck!!
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Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
And as others have said....buy at a pro shop. The service you'll get (if it's a good shop) is worth it in the end. Accessories, that's another story, but most give you a good deal of $$ off accessories if you buy a bow there. The BT Assassin comes ready to hunt minus arrows and a release aid. The accessories that come on it aren't the best, but they are OK and make the bow a value buy for sure. And you can always upgrade accessories.
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Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
Finding a bow that fits well is the easy part. If you ever get past the fork in the road regarding bows I wish you luck on choosing arrows, fletching, mechanical/fixed/brand of broadheads, and release.
Don't get overwhelmed though as there usually is no absolute correct choice that has to be made. But there are choices that affect other choices. For example, the size of your fletching may affect your arrow flight if you choose to shoot fixed broadheads. Just take the advice you receive with caution and make the final choices yourself.
Don't get overwhelmed though as there usually is no absolute correct choice that has to be made. But there are choices that affect other choices. For example, the size of your fletching may affect your arrow flight if you choose to shoot fixed broadheads. Just take the advice you receive with caution and make the final choices yourself.
wolftalonID
Very Active Member
CA your right! I went back and looked and that cam change rule happened December of 06... Posted for rules update year 2007, which is the rules we have today.
I bought my bow 2006, and after I thought about it, my cam is adjustable from 65%-80%. I did have my bow changed that next fall when I had it serviced before the hunt, thats when they also changed my valley depth for me and I had a limb replaced that delamed.
My bow came with a tube peep, I had never had one before, and after about 1000 arrows later, two face slaps and a near eye loss, it went away too....I thought it was a novel idea, but they really suck. Tubeless peeps are way safer, and one less thing on the bow.
I remember that day at the shop, and it was like getting a whole new bow back!
I bought my bow 2006, and after I thought about it, my cam is adjustable from 65%-80%. I did have my bow changed that next fall when I had it serviced before the hunt, thats when they also changed my valley depth for me and I had a limb replaced that delamed.
My bow came with a tube peep, I had never had one before, and after about 1000 arrows later, two face slaps and a near eye loss, it went away too....I thought it was a novel idea, but they really suck. Tubeless peeps are way safer, and one less thing on the bow.
I remember that day at the shop, and it was like getting a whole new bow back!
tdub24
Veteran member
Sorry wolftalonID, I busted up laughing when I read that.
MM, I don't know if the pro shop you choose has multiple releases to try out too, but that might be something to look into. I bought my Diamond Iceman from that huntersfriend.com website and it came with a wrist release. I was struggling to pull my 65lbs bow with it, and shots were always sketchy. I switched to a T.R.U. Ball Pro Diamond Extreme that I really like. For me, the four finger release is easier to draw and I have a better, more consistent anchor point.
Just a thought..........