Does anyone have any advice or tips on snaring coyotes? My son and I are going to try give it a go.
Snaring Coyote Tips
- Thread starter Dakota Kid
- Start date
wyheadhunter
Member
Hello Dakota Kid
I have done some coyote snaring. Not sure what you are looking for? equipment? location? etc. Myself I try not to snare fence crossing as it seems to increase non target animals as in deer fawns and antelope. Never put a snare anywhere that cows and horses can be. in general my coyote snares are going to be 10-12 inch loop and around 10 inches off the ground. I use kill poles for my set up as it seems to be fast and easy for me as long as you arent setting rock piles. My snares are 1/16" 1x19 cable with a break away s hook and choke spring to try to reduce to kill quickly with one swivel back at the kill pole. I generally try to set in brushy coundtry then try to lay limbs or sticks over the top of the set that will allow the smaller predators an open runway through but will deter deer antelope and elk from using the trail I set. Hope this helps and let me know if you have anything specific that I might be able to answer.
I have done some coyote snaring. Not sure what you are looking for? equipment? location? etc. Myself I try not to snare fence crossing as it seems to increase non target animals as in deer fawns and antelope. Never put a snare anywhere that cows and horses can be. in general my coyote snares are going to be 10-12 inch loop and around 10 inches off the ground. I use kill poles for my set up as it seems to be fast and easy for me as long as you arent setting rock piles. My snares are 1/16" 1x19 cable with a break away s hook and choke spring to try to reduce to kill quickly with one swivel back at the kill pole. I generally try to set in brushy coundtry then try to lay limbs or sticks over the top of the set that will allow the smaller predators an open runway through but will deter deer antelope and elk from using the trail I set. Hope this helps and let me know if you have anything specific that I might be able to answer.
dan maule
Veteran member
my only advice is make sure you know your state regulations. Some states such as Michigan have lots of rules governing the type of snare and where and how they can be placed.
Thanks for the info! Any thoughts on how important scent is? or trying to hide the snare? How about the tracks that you leave in the snow, should I try to take giant steps or shuffle my feet and walk through the set so that the coyotes don't follow my track and not take there normal trail?
gonhunting247
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- Jan 21, 2014
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Scent is definitely something you want to minimize at the set. With a foothold I use coyote urine to mist the whole set, but with a snare I like to leave as little scent as possible since in an ideal snare set the coyote will keep moving, not stop. I do use scent or bait at times, but I'll usually set a dirt hole set there and snare the most likely routes to that location. I keep them back away far enough that the coyote will still be moving steady and not starting to make his more cautious approach that is common at a bait set. I like to set for coyotes in as open area as possible, by using real subtle trails through grass or vegetation. If you use a wire stay and run a whammy of that it will hide real well and not much blending is needed. I never have worried about my foot prints with snares since a coyote will run right down your tracks especially in deep snow!
Retterath
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gonhunting247
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Setting in the open like I mentioned above is pretty fool proof for avoiding deer as the loop is lower than their head and nothing is there to make them go under. Fawns have gained enough size by winter to be above the loop also. Smaller animals will travel under the loop safely as well. I have caught a couple cats in these sets, but usually set my snares in tighter cover that coyotes don't like if I'm targeting cats as they like to travel these areas better. Fence crossings can be deadly, but can be tricky to keep non target critters out. if you check for tracks and hair caught in the fence and use common sense on the height of the spot they are using you can usually find crossings that deer aren't using. Just err on the side of caution in these cases. Setting in areas with dogs (pets) is pretty dangerous as a good set for a coyote will usually catch a dog, just too many similarities. It's not worth it, to chance killing someones pet. Be super cautious if using snares in areas that could be used by bird dogs during upland season!
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gonhunting247
Veteran member
- Jan 21, 2014
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Good luck, trapping is fun and you will be amazed the details of animal behavior you will pick up. You will most likely learn to look for more subtle sign, that will transfer over to hunting. At least it helps me.
Have a blast!
Have a blast!
So I set a few snares out and haven't gotten anything yet, but I did have a coyote walk next to the snare and keep going. Any thoughts if he tried to avoid it or just decided to angle slightly from the path. The coyote was heading for the snare and then about 5 feet away it decided to angle to the right about 15-20 degrees and just kept on that path. The snare is set up in a small group of open trees with about 4 inches of snow on the ground. There are lots of tracks in there so I think it could have easily decided to just change directions slightly but hard to say. Any thought on if I should try to direct the coyote with sticks or try to camo the snare some how??
wyheadhunter
Member
my refusal rate dropped substantially when I quit using the 3/32 cable and went to 1/16 inch that a friend turned me onto 15 years ago. and most all of my snare placements will use sage brush, rocks, bitter brush, or in deeper cow trails in my country or tall grass to help to break up the outline of the snare circle, 9 wire, and kill pole. I always thought of 1/16" cable as being to light but after a couple of years of great success I will not look back. has even held a medium sized mountain lion that was foot snared and turned loose. Most of my time is spent trapping cats and I ain't smart enough to catch coyotes consistently using traps. The snares set where livestock ain't makes me look like I am adequate at coyote killing to the ranchers I trap on. Others have said that fences are great locations and they do break up or camouflage your snare outline. I personally didn't like the numbers of non target animals that I caught setting the way I set. perhaps I need to study the fence crossings I set and find more subtle options than the obvious. The cool thing about it is that it seems you can always learn new stuff with every check. Best of luck with all you do.
wyheadhunter
Member
my refusal rate dropped substantially when I quit using the 3/32 cable and went to 1/16 inch that a friend turned me onto 15 years ago. and most all of my snare placements will use sage brush, rocks, bitter brush, or in deeper cow trails in my country or tall grass to help to break up the outline of the snare circle, 9 wire, and kill pole. I always thought of 1/16" cable as being to light but after a couple of years of great success I will not look back. has even held a medium sized mountain lion that was foot snared and turned loose. Most of my time is spent trapping cats and I aint smart enough to catch coyotes consistently using traps. The snares set where livestock aint makes me look like I am adequate at coyote killing to the ranchers I trap on. Others have said that fences are great locations and they do break up or camouflage your snare outline. I personally didnt like the numbers of non target animals that I caught setting the way I set.
I like 1/16" or 5/64" with a low profile lock. I also prefer 7x7 over 1x19 cable but if you have a lot of wind and need a stiffer loop sometimes the 1x19 is better but can depend on who is shaping them as the 1x19 is smoother and the lock will slide easier if the loop is heavily loaded.
Try to snare trails where they are traveling not hunting. You want them moving with intent from point A to point B when they encounter your snare not picking they way through cover hunting and pausing. Try to disturb the area as little as possible. Approach the spot from the side. Don't walk on their tracks/trail and hang a 7-9" loop 9-12" off the walking surface (depending on state regulations). I like to pick a spot where they are already passing between twigs, stems, brush that is 12" wide or less and just fence down that last little bit or nothing at all.
Try to snare trails where they are traveling not hunting. You want them moving with intent from point A to point B when they encounter your snare not picking they way through cover hunting and pausing. Try to disturb the area as little as possible. Approach the spot from the side. Don't walk on their tracks/trail and hang a 7-9" loop 9-12" off the walking surface (depending on state regulations). I like to pick a spot where they are already passing between twigs, stems, brush that is 12" wide or less and just fence down that last little bit or nothing at all.
gonhunting247
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- Jan 21, 2014
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Well said, Johnsd16!
Try to snare trails where they are traveling not hunting. You want them moving with intent from point A to point B when they encounter your snare not picking they way through cover hunting and pausing. Try to disturb the area as little as possible. Approach the spot from the side. Don't walk on their tracks/trail and hang a 7-9" loop 9-12" off the walking surface (depending on state regulations). I like to pick a spot where they are already passing between twigs, stems, brush that is 12" wide or less and just fence down that last little bit or nothing at all.[/QUOTE]
Try to snare trails where they are traveling not hunting. You want them moving with intent from point A to point B when they encounter your snare not picking they way through cover hunting and pausing. Try to disturb the area as little as possible. Approach the spot from the side. Don't walk on their tracks/trail and hang a 7-9" loop 9-12" off the walking surface (depending on state regulations). I like to pick a spot where they are already passing between twigs, stems, brush that is 12" wide or less and just fence down that last little bit or nothing at all.[/QUOTE]
What do you mean "shaping the loop"? Is there something I need to do to the snare, or is it already done by the Mfg of the snare?
gonhunting247
Veteran member
- Jan 21, 2014
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It's called loading the snare. It's done in a lot of different ways by applying pressure with your hand or an object while sliding the snare to create a memory so the loop is more circular and will fire smoothly. It's hard to explain exactly on here. Some snares come pre-loaded from the manufacturer, most don't. I bet you can look it up on U-tube. I also bet F and T Post will have a video or book on it. They will also talk you through it if you call.
Hopes this helps, Good luck,
Bob E.