Anyone ever use or try a pressure washer to clean their skulls? I saw a video on FB of a guy cleaning his elk with one, looks like it worked pretty good. Don't know how long it sat or what kind of prep work he did, but it would beat tending a pot and burner all day.
Skull cleaning
- Thread starter Packer79
- Start date
There is no cheap, easy and good way. All skull methods have a draw back.
Look up maceration online. Get an aquarium heater a big tote and some water and let the bacteria clean it up with hardly any labor. Only draw back is smell. Degrease with same setup and you will have a quality skull for $50. And then all skulls from then on are a few dollars in power, soap and peroxide if you want to whiten.
Look up maceration online. Get an aquarium heater a big tote and some water and let the bacteria clean it up with hardly any labor. Only draw back is smell. Degrease with same setup and you will have a quality skull for $50. And then all skulls from then on are a few dollars in power, soap and peroxide if you want to whiten.
genesis27:3
Member
Yes, I use a pressure washer. I simmer the skull for a few hours, then blast off everything with the pressure washer. Works like a charm, and makes it much easier. If you've never used one on a skull, I'd suggest practicing on a skull that may not mean as much and give it a whirl. Makes it so much easier than any other method I've used. The one I use isn't an extremely powerful one, so you may want to make sure you start at a little distance from the skull, and work your way closer as you get more comfortable.
Slugz
Veteran member
I think the key there is tuning down the power. You could destroy a skull pretty easy with one. We still do the borax/dawn soap boil method.
Work2hunt
Veteran member
I use the borax/soap method boil method, too. Then I may use the pressure washer as needed. But, as stated, be careful. It does not take much to blast a tooth out.
sneakypete
Veteran member
I did two last year practicing, in the field remove as much meat as possible and then I brought a shot gun cl
Leaning brush and one length on cleaning rod. I then used a cordless drill in reverse to remove as much of the brain matter as possible. Next salt the brain cavity and the remainder of the skull. All this will get you home without a stinking skull. Use feed salt fine it's about 5$ at a feed store for 50lb, and it fits in a five gallon bucket. When you get home then a slow simmer & light power wash.
Leaning brush and one length on cleaning rod. I then used a cordless drill in reverse to remove as much of the brain matter as possible. Next salt the brain cavity and the remainder of the skull. All this will get you home without a stinking skull. Use feed salt fine it's about 5$ at a feed store for 50lb, and it fits in a five gallon bucket. When you get home then a slow simmer & light power wash.
Roboz
Active Member
- Mar 10, 2011
- 196
- 0
Pressure washer is the only way i will do it now, simmer for about an hour with Dawn / borax - pressure wash then simmer again if needed and pressure wash until i'm happy with it. Did 2 Antelope skulls and a deer in an afternoon, they turned out better than anything i have received from a taxidermist. I use a gas pressure washer that is 2300 PSI with the green nozzle, believe that is a 20 degree tip. Only problem i had was i blew a few teeth out of the antelope, but i just glued those back in. Had my daughter pick up a gallon of sally's salon 40 creme, brushed them down wrap with saran wrap and let them sit in the sun and rinse.
Time to get out the notepad and pen (or hit print)...because If I'm going to bother typing this you can take it to the bank that this is the ONLY and BEST way to clean a skull if you don't have access to bugs. I have tried them all, and this one works best.
1. Don't fret about taking all the meat, brains, etc. out before hand. Get what you can.
2. If you don't mind some smell, it doesn't hurt to let the skull "ripen" a bit. I usually wrap in plastic bags and let them sit for a few days. Not necessary, but speeds up the process a bit.
3. NEVER BOIL, as in don't ever BOIL a skull.
4. Get some sal soda (washing soda). I usually put 1-2 cups in my (large) "boiling" (again don't boil a skull, EVER) pot. Simmer for a couple hours. The key here is the washing soda, the cartilage, meat, etc. will literally start falling off and you don't need to scrape, power wash, use brushes, none of that B.S.
5. Replace water, this time I usually put just a bit more sal soda (not much) and about a half bottle of dawn, and dawn dish soap only. Simmer, did I mention to NEVER BOIL???, for a few hours. For greasy skulls like bears, I usually repeat this step to make sure the grease is all pulled from the skull.
6. Go to a Sally's or some other beauty supply store that has hair salon stuff...pick up a gallon container of 40 volume crème developer, while you're there, get a container of basic white (powdered stuff). Trust me on the gallon size, you'll be doing this every time you do a skull from here on out.
7. Fill a plastic bowl with basic white and mix in the crème developer...it should be smooth, thickish paste. Be careful to NOT get any of this on antlers, unless you like white antlers. I use a paint brush and paint the mixture all over the skull, don't get cheap, apply it pretty heavy. Wrap the skull in plastic bags (I usually use plastic grocery store bags for deer and pronghorn, use tall white kitchen bags for elk). Walk away for 3-5 days.
8. Open bag, rinse the skull in water and let dry.
Results:
Couple three pronghorn:
Without bugs, this is the only way to fly...you don't miss any of the bones and don't have to scrape, power wash, any of that non-sense.
It does take some time, but the skulls come out very good.
1. Don't fret about taking all the meat, brains, etc. out before hand. Get what you can.
2. If you don't mind some smell, it doesn't hurt to let the skull "ripen" a bit. I usually wrap in plastic bags and let them sit for a few days. Not necessary, but speeds up the process a bit.
3. NEVER BOIL, as in don't ever BOIL a skull.
4. Get some sal soda (washing soda). I usually put 1-2 cups in my (large) "boiling" (again don't boil a skull, EVER) pot. Simmer for a couple hours. The key here is the washing soda, the cartilage, meat, etc. will literally start falling off and you don't need to scrape, power wash, use brushes, none of that B.S.
5. Replace water, this time I usually put just a bit more sal soda (not much) and about a half bottle of dawn, and dawn dish soap only. Simmer, did I mention to NEVER BOIL???, for a few hours. For greasy skulls like bears, I usually repeat this step to make sure the grease is all pulled from the skull.
6. Go to a Sally's or some other beauty supply store that has hair salon stuff...pick up a gallon container of 40 volume crème developer, while you're there, get a container of basic white (powdered stuff). Trust me on the gallon size, you'll be doing this every time you do a skull from here on out.
7. Fill a plastic bowl with basic white and mix in the crème developer...it should be smooth, thickish paste. Be careful to NOT get any of this on antlers, unless you like white antlers. I use a paint brush and paint the mixture all over the skull, don't get cheap, apply it pretty heavy. Wrap the skull in plastic bags (I usually use plastic grocery store bags for deer and pronghorn, use tall white kitchen bags for elk). Walk away for 3-5 days.
8. Open bag, rinse the skull in water and let dry.
Results:
Couple three pronghorn:
Without bugs, this is the only way to fly...you don't miss any of the bones and don't have to scrape, power wash, any of that non-sense.
It does take some time, but the skulls come out very good.
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