FL Bushing Die then Expander Mandrel to Set Neck Tension

[Slugz]

Does anyone use a full length bushing die to resize and bump the shoulder then use a expander mandrel to set neck tension/concentricity?

For those that do it what's your work flow? do you do it post trim, deburr/chamfer?

Do you use a dry lube? Carbide vice steel mandrel?

Thanks

 

[memtb]

Slugz, If I properly understand your question. I seldom trim, but will certainly deburr/chamfer post trim. Primer pocket also gets cleaned at this point....as I’m already on the machine. Though, needed or not.....primer pockets are cleaned every time!

I also use dry lube (graphite powder, as I have about 10 ounces of the stuff aquired in the ‘70’s) inside the neck prior to sizing step! memtb

 

[Slugz]

Slugz, If I properly understand your question. I seldom trim, but will certainly deburr/chamfer post trim. Primer pocket also gets cleaned at this point....as I’m already on the machine. Though, needed or not.....primer pockets are cleaned every time!

I also use dry lube (graphite powder, as I have about 10 ounces of the stuff aquired in the ‘70’s) inside the neck prior to sizing step! memtb

I edited to put the question on the post and in the verbiage.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

I don't full length size on any brass that has been shot in the rifle I'm loading for. I neck size only as the previously fired case has already been properly sized for that particular rifle by it's chamber.

I do check case length and if I have to trim, I do inside/outside chamfer the case.

I don't use any lube on bullets or inside the neck of cases on any rifle cartridge. Totally different procedure for pistol cases I reload.

 

[mallardsx2]

Never used one of those one of those expander mandrels. I always just used whatever expander ball comes with the full length re-size die....had to buy another 7MM expander die the other day because I lost my temper with a stuck 7MM case and got out a ball peen brass hammer and got a "little" carried away......lol

Not to change the subject but do you ever have difficulties closing the bolt by neck sizing only?

My 300 WSM (even with factory ammo) is stiff on opening after firing the gun. I bump the shoulders back .002 so I can close the bold without having to stand on the thing. I have always trimmed all my brass to the exact length then light chamfer on inside and outside of brass and uniform and clean the primer pockets all out after every reload. I dont think I reload to the precision standards of most though but my guns all shoot well. I dont even sort my brass. (I do segregate my nickel cases....just because they size so much different than brass from my observation)

Just the other day my neighbor bumped into me and asked me what kind of gun I was shooting over the summer because he said I was causing "ripples in his pool" and it "scared his cats". lol

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Never used one of those one of those expander mandrels. I always just used whatever expander ball comes with the full length re-size die....had to buy another 7MM expander die the other day because I lost my temper with a stuck 7MM case and got out a ball peen brass hammer and got a "little" carried away......lol

Not to change the subject but do you ever have difficulties closing the bolt by neck sizing only?

My 300 WSM (even with factory ammo) is stiff on opening after firing the gun. I bump the shoulders back .002 so I can close the bold without having to stand on the thing. I have always trimmed all my brass to the exact length then light chamfer on inside and outside of brass and uniform and clean the primer pockets all out after every reload. I dont think I reload to the precision standards of most though but my guns all shoot well. I dont even sort my brass. (I do segregate my nickel cases....just because they size so much different than brass from my observation)

Just the other day my neighbor bumped into me and asked me what kind of gun I was shooting over the summer because he said I was causing "ripples in his pool" and it "scared his cats". lol

Usually when a bolt is stiff opening, it's because you are loading a little hot. Your chamber could be at minimum dimensions and along with a hot load cause that situation. What do your primers look like after shooting? If they are flattened or cratered around the firing pin strike, then you are getting a little hot.

Never had a problem when neck sizing only.

 

[mallardsx2]

My primers are flat as a pancake with Winchester silver-tip 300WSM 150 grain loads....

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

You probably are on the high side as far as pressure goes. Watch your brass for length and splitting near the rim.

 

[JimP]

With that and you saying that you have a hard time lifting the bolt I'd back off the loading a 1/2 a grain and see what happens.

As for Slugz questions, I'll prep all of my new cases by camfering and deburing them before loading. After shooting them I'll usually inspect the primer pocket to see if it needs to be cleaned.

But I just use a regular old RCBS die that is nothing special.

I do use Hornady's One Shot spray lube, and I'll hit the case mouths a little with it to help the expander as it is coming out of the case after sizing.

I also neck size only but I do check each and every load in my rifle at the range to make sure that it chambers properly. I have had a few tight ones over the years.

On carbide dies, all of my straight wall pistol dies are carbide. You have to love it when you don't have to lube everything before working on them.

 

[mallardsx2]

Is the expander bushing that Slugz is referring to the same thing as an expander ball or is that something for more precision geared reloading?

Honestly I never knew there was such a thing.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Yep. it is what the decapping pin is in. I do exactly as Jim does.

 

[WapitiBob]

I going to use a neck bushing to set neck tension, then seat the bullet. I see no benefit to an expander mandrel. The common thought is the expander rounds out the id of the case neck, which is true, but the bullet will do the same thing. I've just used the standard expander ball in the past.
As far a s process, I have a belted case so I use a larry willis die first, then neck size, then use a body die to bump the shoulder. I want setting the shoulder to be the last time I touch the brass with a die.

 

[Slugz]

Is the expander bushing that Slugz is referring to the same thing as an expander ball or is that something for more precision geared reloading?

Honestly I never knew there was such a thing.

So couple things going on.

A Redding S type full length bushing die has a bushing in the top end that goes over the neck. You get a bushing and install it that matches your bullet brass combo. Establishes an OD exactly. Usually .001 to .003 smaller than the loaded rounds OD. Each brass brand is different in its own metallurgy and thickness.

Second an expander mandrel then can be used to set an exact ID of the neck.

I'm going back and forth a little on using the mandrel for ID and if its needed and will it help with ES or not. Ill most likely do a small test this summer for comparison.

 

[Slugz]

Is the expander bushing that Slugz is referring to the same thing as an expander ball or is that something for more precision geared reloading?

Honestly I never knew there was such a thing.

Full length bushing die is one thing
Neck bushing die is one thing
Full length resizing die is one thing ( has ball and decapping pin)
Expander mandrel is inserted in a plain dummy die with a steel or carbide mandrel in it for precise ID

 

[DRUSS]

i have had similar issues with WSM cases (325/300) after neck sizing after a couple firings. then i needed to full length size again. i have been reading more about similar issues with cases that have the steeper shoulders. on my next round i plan on tring the shoulder bump method and see how that works out. LRO site has good instructions and a video about this process.