Electrolysis vs Tumblers for Brass Cleaning

Awise1

Member
Mar 17, 2011
116
0
N. Calif
I'm interested in finding out the pros and cons from reloaders out there who are using either electrolysis or tumblers in cleaning their brass. I'm particularly interested in the tumblers using the stainless steel media, water, detergent and/or Lemi Shine. Does the interior of the brass come out as sparkling clean as the some of the advertising sites show?
 

Colorado Cowboy

Super Moderator
Jun 8, 2011
8,108
4,336
82
Dolores, Colorado
I shoot a lot of black powder in cartridges, not just front stuffers. The cases after firing are really dirty. I have researched different methods of case cleaning and have opinions that might be a lot different than most of the folks here.

First ask yourself...do I really need the brass to look like unfired factory brass? Probably not as it is only cosmetics, inside or outside. Smokeless powder will only leave a small amount soot like residue on the inside of the case. On my smokeless cleaning all I do is inspect the brass for any defect (like a crack) and then put the cases in my vibration type "tumbler" loaded with lizard litter I buy from a pet supply house. I get a 40# sack for less than $20. It is really crushed walnut shells and a lot cheaper than specific stuff made for case cleaning and does a great job...inside & outside. I inspect the brass again and then it is ready for my reloading process.

The only difference I do with BP brass is to soak it in a solution of 10% commercial bathroom cleaner and water over night, then in the tumbler it goes after drying.

For me, I really don't care if my reloaded ammunition looks like it comes out of a factory box. All I want is clean brass that will function thru my bolt action rifles.
 

Awise1

Member
Mar 17, 2011
116
0
N. Calif
I shoot a lot of black powder in cartridges, not just front stuffers. The cases after firing are really dirty. I have researched different methods of case cleaning and have opinions that might be a lot different than most of the folks here.

First ask yourself...do I really need the brass to look like unfired factory brass? Probably not as it is only cosmetics, inside or outside. Smokeless powder will only leave a small amount soot like residue on the inside of the case. On my smokeless cleaning all I do is inspect the brass for any defect (like a crack) and then put the cases in my vibration type "tumbler" loaded with lizard litter I buy from a pet supply house. I get a 40# sack for less than $20. It is really crushed walnut shells and a lot cheaper than specific stuff made for case cleaning and does a great job...inside & outside. I inspect the brass again and then it is ready for my reloading process.

The only difference I do with BP brass is to soak it in a solution of 10% commercial bathroom cleaner and water over night, then in the tumbler it goes after drying.

For me, I really don't care if my reloaded ammunition looks like it comes out of a factory box. All I want is clean brass that will function thru my bolt action rifles.
Thanks for the reply CC! I've been reloading for 30+ yrs. but couldn't figure out the reason for getting the inside of the brass case clean. I've always used the vibratory cleaner with walnut and corncob media to ensure smooth feeding when chambering rounds. Never noticed any change in velocity with brass that was fired multiple times nor change in case capacity because of residue buildup. Guess I'll save my money for powder/primers and continue on as I have been doing.
 

Awise1

Member
Mar 17, 2011
116
0
N. Calif
Not to beat a dead horse, but yesterday I went down to a local gun shop that has a number of Thumler's Tumblers in the display case. I asked the guy behind the counter, "why do I want my fired brass shiny and clean on the inside?". He said, "because your fired brass will be like new." I reminded him that it might look new but it does not make it new. He took me in back and introduced me to his gunsmith. This guy has been a gunsmith since back when Jesus wore knickers. He related to me that smokeless powder residue comes off in flakes after repeated firings and a thought or theory suggests these flakes cause increased throat and barrel erosion. He showed me an article from Brownells and nowhere does it mention this has actually been scientifically proven. The gunsmith said that he actually does tumble with stainless pins, water, and Dawn detergent all of his .223 brass for his AR's, only because he fires 100s of rounds on an outing. Like CC said, he told me I should have no concern with my big game rifles because I'm not firing hundreds of rounds through them at the range. Clean them every 10 -12 rounds and no worries.
 

missjordan

Veteran member
Dec 9, 2014
1,136
22
Missoula, MT
I believe the liquid tumblers you can't throw the liquid away in the trash, they must go to a haz mat waste facility to be recycled. Double check that fact because the salesmen i bought my tumbler from told me that. I'm happy with my Corn cob cleaner either way!
 

Mule3006Elk

Active Member
Jul 3, 2013
264
82
I clean my brass using a Tumbler before I resize. I don't take any chances, albeit minuscule, to damage my dies.
 
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maninthemaze

New Member
Apr 4, 2016
47
0
Kentucky
I'm fairly new to reloading for accuracy. What I've found, and read on other forums when asked, is that the stainless steel pins that I had been using and the sonic cleaners can get the brass too clean. What I mean by that is, when brass is cleaned with corn cob/walnut tumblers, there is a fair amount of dust and carbon left in the case neck. This dust acts as a lubricant of sorts. When brass is cleaned with SS pins, it's more of a brass on copper grip. I've started lubing my case necks before seating bullets. It has definitely helped my muzzle velocity averages.

Here's a link for a better explanation.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/04/the-perils-of-ultrasonic-cleaning-some-advice-on-bullet-seating/
 

TT RedRaider

New Member
Dec 17, 2017
2
0
Lubbock, Texas
I use both for my brass. Get on Amazon or harbour Freight and get an Ultrasonic cleaner and tumbler a lot cheaper then the "Brand" name ones and the are the same unit just doesnt say Hornady or Lyman.
I tumble my brass first for about 30 minutes, just to clean it so I can de-prime them. Then I run it through the Ultrasonic cleaner for a few cycles. After drying I tumble it again for a few hours. This gets the inside and primer pockets nice and clean. Just my 2 cents.
 

Colorado Cowboy

Super Moderator
Jun 8, 2011
8,108
4,336
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Dolores, Colorado
The only thing to remember when putting them thru the tumber again after depriming is that a small piece of media can get stuck in the flash hole. need to inspect all the cases before repriming.
 

mallardsx2

Veteran member
Jul 8, 2015
3,820
3,017
The only thing to remember when putting them thru the tumber again after depriming is that a small piece of media can get stuck in the flash hole. need to inspect all the cases before repriming.
Spot on advice.

Happened to me on more than one occasion.

As a relativity new reloader to 9mm shells I found that a common cleaning mixture and a cement mixer work best for doing bulk runs of 9MM brass compared to my ultrasonic.

Then I put the brass on a cookie sheet in the over for a couple hours to make sure the insides of the case are free of moisture.

I do a couple thousand rounds at a time now and it works for my needs.
 

rammont

Active Member
Oct 31, 2016
228
4
Montana
I'm fairly new to reloading for accuracy. What I've found, and read on other forums when asked, is that the stainless steel pins that I had been using and the sonic cleaners can get the brass too clean. What I mean by that is, when brass is cleaned with corn cob/walnut tumblers, there is a fair amount of dust and carbon left in the case neck. This dust acts as a lubricant of sorts. When brass is cleaned with SS pins, it's more of a brass on copper grip. I've started lubing my case necks before seating bullets. It has definitely helped my muzzle velocity averages.

Here's a link for a better explanation.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/04/the-perils-of-ultrasonic-cleaning-some-advice-on-bullet-seating/
This theory begs the question, what about factory ammo? Is that why factory ammo isn't as precise as some handloads? The other question I'd have to ask the author of your linked post is, did he turn the inside of his necks? If he did then maybe his cutting tool or his technique is creating ridges inside the case neck that are creating inconsistent neck tension problems. Maybe the sonic cleaner is doing a better job and has revealed his problem with his neck turning process. Maybe having carbon and lube inside the neck is just masking the true problem.
 

Bonecollector

Veteran member
Mar 9, 2014
5,852
3,656
Ohio
Spot on advice.

Happened to me on more than one occasion.

As a relativity new reloader to 9mm shells I found that a common cleaning mixture and a cement mixer work best for doing bulk runs of 9MM brass compared to my ultrasonic.

Then I put the brass on a cookie sheet in the over for a couple hours to make sure the insides of the case are free of moisture.

I do a couple thousand rounds at a time now and it works for my needs.
WOW!! That's serious. :D
 

maninthemaze

New Member
Apr 4, 2016
47
0
Kentucky
Spot on advice.

Happened to me on more than one occasion.

As a relativity new reloader to 9mm shells I found that a common cleaning mixture and a cement mixer work best for doing bulk runs of 9MM brass compared to my ultrasonic.

Then I put the brass on a cookie sheet in the over for a couple hours to make sure the insides of the case are free of moisture.

I do a couple thousand rounds at a time now and it works for my needs.
You should check in to a Big Dawg tumbler. I built one just like his relatively cheap. I think I've got $75 in it, maybe $100 including pins. I can tumble 1000 rounds of 45 ACP easily.

Just my 2 cents and worth the price charged.