2016 Southeast Alaska Fishing Trip

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My Uncle and I had been talking about going on a fishing trip ever since we got back from our Quebec Caribou hunt in 2014. We finally decided that 2016 was the year, we did some research and my uncle had some friends who had gone previously. We decided that we would go on a mostly un-guided fishing trip in Yakutat Alaska. We booked the trip with Yakutat Lodge, from 8/28/16-9/3/16. The trip was for 6 nights and included food, lodging, vehicle, the use of a boat, and one guide day. This trip my uncle and I were joined by my father in law as well. We had to lay over in Seattle on the way there and back to maximize our trip. Yakutat has 2 flights into it per day. We flew on the early flight, stopping in Juneau on the way there. The views from the air while arriving in Juneau were amazing. After leaving Juneau we experienced some more stellar scenery from the air and arrived in Yakutat at around 11:30am. The Lodge is located next to the airport and has rooms there, as well as cabins on the bay, we stayed in the cabins on the bay.

We went and got our rental vehicle first and then headed to the lodge for some lunch and a small orientation. The rental vehicles are quite funny, they are usually dealing with groups from 4-6 people, so most of the rentals in town are full size vans. Our first van was from the 80’s and did not like driving straight. We ended up having to change vans because our original one did not have a hitch to pull a boat. We went and got into our cabin and then decided to go fishing and try our luck. The first afternoon we fished for a couple of hours and caught some Rainbow Trout, Dolly Varden, and one Silver Salmon.

 

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We got back to the lodge that evening for dinner and to speak with the head guide to work out our week. The one guide we had, we chose to use it for an ocean charter. The charter was scheduled for Tuesday, so we requested a drift boat for Monday. One of the reasons we chose this lodge was the fact that they allowed you to take a drift boat, or small power boat to use on your own. Now truth be told, none of us have ever drifted a river, or rowed a boat ever. To say it was a trial by fire would be an underestimation of epic proportions.

The drift was on the Situk River and was around 13 miles. Afterwards we found out, it was quite a technical river. The Tongass National Forest service actually has on their website that you should float the river with an experienced guide for your first time. Being the youngest of the bunch I decided that I would be in charge of the oars. We headed back the cabin after a few beers and food. We arrived back at the lodge Monday morning to find our drift boat waiting in the parking lot. We ate some breakfast and got some last visit tips on the drift boat. We headed out to 9-mile bridge to the boat launch, one of the guys that worked for the lodge accompanied us to the launch to help us put the boat in and then he would shuttle the van to the landing. He gave us the best advice of the entire trip at the launch, which saved our butts more than once. He said when you hit something with the drift boat, lean into it. We found this out less than 300 yards from the launch when we got caught in an overhanging tree and I was knocked of my bench and the boat started to take on water. We got out of that by leaning into the tree, and it worked. We took our first stop about ½ mile into the trip after more trees were hit, anchor got hung up in the willows, and my nerves were shot. We fished a little on the upper end and caught a few fish, then realized that we had stopped so many times to get over the nerves that we were way behind schedule. We decided to just get through the river the first day. It was over 5 hours later we finally found another person. It was a huge weight off my shoulders to finally get back to other boats. There is no vehicle access between the launch and the landing. We had issues getting the drift boat off the landing due to the low tide and rear wheel drive van. Some other guys helped us get unstuck and finally got to the lodge for much needed dinner and beer at around 9:30pm.

 

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Tuesday was our day on the ocean with Captain Ralph on the Madam Hooker, right off the bat Captain told us that there was a forecast for blowing wind and rough seas out where they usually fish for Halibut and we would have to try some other spots closer in. Fishing was slow catching a dogfish and not much for the first couple hours. Captain Ron worked hard and kept moving us to try and find some fish. It turned out in one spot and we caught 4 Lingcod and a Halibut. My Uncle and I teamed up to catch the biggest fish of the day a 44 7/8” 40lb Lingcod, he set the hook, but was unable to reel it in, so I took over and reeled it in. We caught some rockfish as well, but only one Halibut. Captain Ron even kept us out 2 hours past his normal stopping time to try and get us more fish. The crazy part was they were talking about winds and big waves and they never showed, beautiful day on the water.

 

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At dinner Tuesday night we told the head guide we would be using the Drift boat again, he asked if we needed anything and I mentioned the oars seemed a little long for me. He changed them out for us that night while we slept. Let me tell you the employees at the lodge where top notch people and made sure they took care of everything you needed. We got on the water a little earlier Wednesday and with one day under our belt and the shorter oars made for a great day on the river, we didn’t get hung up once and the tree hitting’s where down 90%. We caught quite a few fish, saw a ton of Bald Eagles and one black bear, a cow moose with a calf.


One part that was concerning, was we would pull up to a gravel bar to relieve ourselves and do some fishing. There would be fresh bear tracks and scat on every one. Some black bear, but mostly we would see Brown Bear tracks. At one gravel bar my uncle showed me some large brown bear tracks and then I walk over and see 2 sets of cub brown bear tracks, we did not stay at the landing for long. We learned our lesson and got off the river around 7pm that night and learned the trick of having to drag the boat up to the top of the beach and lift it on the trailer so the van never gets close to the sand.

 

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We decided to take the drift boat out one more time on Thursday. We got out before 8am and landed many fish. It was crazy how much the water level had dropped in the 3 days on the river, it was close to a foot lower by Thursday, which made for some interesting drifting, there was a few spots we had to portage over some low water. Prior to the trip we had been told about how the area is basically a rain forest and to plan around all the rain. Well, we had the most beautiful weather they had seen in years. Did not rain once, but that also kept the fishing kind of slow. When it rains the water stays up and more fish enter the river.

 

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For Friday my father-in-law opted to purchase another charter for Halibut and they had a spot for him on one of the boats. This ended up being a great decision. The boat limited out on Halibut by 10am and my father-in-law caught a 100lb Halibut.

My Uncle and I decided to head up to 9-mile bridge and walk the river to do some fishing, we caught some really nice Dolly’s, a bunch of Pink Salmon and a couple Silvers. The last night we had Ribeye and Dungeness Crab for dinner and it was excellent, actually every meal we had was great.

 

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We flew out on the later flight on Saturday and used the day to do some sightseeing and recuperating. As I write this, I still have limited feeling in my hands. Rowing a boat for three days not knowing what you are doing does a number on your hands and back. I wouldn’t change any of it though. We left @ 6:30pm stopped in Juneau on the way back as well. While approaching Juneau, I was able to spot some Mt Goats on the mountain, either that or there were some small snow drifts walking across the grassy face. We stayed the night in Seattle, and got back home Sunday. Everything said it was an awesome trip, we ended up splitting up the fish and each came home with 50lbs. Now it’s on to archery Elk!!!!!

 

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[SGM]

Very nice, looks and sounds like a blast!

 

[Hilltop]

What an experience...some day I need to do that. Congrats on a great trip.

 

[libidilatimmy]

That sounds like a great trip! I want to do something like this someday. To this day, every time I'm rowing a drift boat I'll spin a 360 on purpose off the launch and tell the others on the boat that was the first whirlybird of the day, and hopefully the last, but no guarantee's.

 

[ssliger]

That sounds like a great trip! I want to do something like this someday. To this day, every time I'm rowing a drift boat I'll spin a 360 on purpose off the launch and tell the others on the boat that was the first whirlybird of the day, and hopefully the last, but no guarantee's.

We named them round abouts. And many happened over the trip.

 

[ElkTrout]

Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for the pics and sharing the story!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Matthoek21]

Awesome trip. I know y'all had a blast. Next time take me and I'll do all the rowing.