I have seen several turret guys who either couldn't get a shot off after freezing up or missed at less than 200 after bragging in camp about ringing targets at 8 or 900. I don't want to take shots at much more than 400 anyway, so shooting something flat and sighting it in at 2 inches high or so means I can hold dead on out to 300, and only 12-13 inches high at 400. I don't want to drop in a laser guided hellfire missile from across 3 canyons, I want to hunt them when they have a chance. Just my preference.
Sighting in distance
- Thread starter Swimmer
- Start date
I don't want to take shots much past 250, and why my rifles are all zeroed at that range. I never set out with the intent of twisting a turret, but have no problem doing it when necessary.
But, I'm also honest with myself. I've applied for tags for multiple species in multiple states for the last 2 decades...some over 3 decades.
Good tags roll around less and less often all the time, so I asked myself what would happen, if on the last day of a hunt I was afforded a shot at a once-in-a-lifetime animal at 4-5 hundred? I would take that shot no matter if it was by holdover or by turret. Next question I asked myself, what's the best way to achieve the result of an ethical, one shot kill in that situation? IME, that would be via twisting turrets over having to "guess" hold over.
I've done a lot of both, and I see no "advantage" of holdover...and a whole lot more disadvantages. Simply put, if holding a foot or two over the back of an animal was the best way to do things, I would...but its just not.
To each their own...just make sure you're not shooting beyond your limits or the limits of your equipment.
But, I'm also honest with myself. I've applied for tags for multiple species in multiple states for the last 2 decades...some over 3 decades.
Good tags roll around less and less often all the time, so I asked myself what would happen, if on the last day of a hunt I was afforded a shot at a once-in-a-lifetime animal at 4-5 hundred? I would take that shot no matter if it was by holdover or by turret. Next question I asked myself, what's the best way to achieve the result of an ethical, one shot kill in that situation? IME, that would be via twisting turrets over having to "guess" hold over.
I've done a lot of both, and I see no "advantage" of holdover...and a whole lot more disadvantages. Simply put, if holding a foot or two over the back of an animal was the best way to do things, I would...but its just not.
To each their own...just make sure you're not shooting beyond your limits or the limits of your equipment.
50bowhunter
Member
- Jan 6, 2016
- 103
- 2
I'll go along with that as well. Shots under 200 can be taken fairly quickly, and I want all of my attention going to the shot, not thinking about compensation. I'm not taking fast shots at 400 yards. Thus the time spent settling in to the shot can also be used to think about bullet drop.
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So y'all think that zeroing at 250 (is at 200 now) and dialing for the 350-400 yard shot (if it ever comes) is the way to go? At 250 the ballistics say +3.5 at 100 and -3 at 300 (keep everything in about a 6 inch circle out to 300). Most shots should be around 150-250 yards???
That more better?
My Leica ER (2.5-10x44) has a "soft" turret for elevation. What I don't like about it is that it will "self-adjust" sliding in and out of the gun case. I want to tape it so there will be no unintentional adjustments to mess me up. Wish it was a LOT stiffer in the adjustments. Never intentionally used it cause 95% of everything I have ever shot was inside of 100 yards with only a handful between 200 and 250 yards.
I do have a rangefinder - can tape the turret (masking tape) and pull the tape off if the 400 yard shot presents itself, dial to the point and whack him/her/it. Was originally hoping to used the distance between the crosshairs and the post for the holdover if at 400 - need to see what it actually is...
Another question - how long do you get to shoot an antelope? Is it like cows in a pastures?
I'm used to having say 3-5 seconds to get shot off. Mostly hunting crossings in thick woods - actually sit in a tree stand with my rifle on my shoulder and shooting stick the entire time I'm hunting. Not used to stuff standing around.
That more better?
My Leica ER (2.5-10x44) has a "soft" turret for elevation. What I don't like about it is that it will "self-adjust" sliding in and out of the gun case. I want to tape it so there will be no unintentional adjustments to mess me up. Wish it was a LOT stiffer in the adjustments. Never intentionally used it cause 95% of everything I have ever shot was inside of 100 yards with only a handful between 200 and 250 yards.
I do have a rangefinder - can tape the turret (masking tape) and pull the tape off if the 400 yard shot presents itself, dial to the point and whack him/her/it. Was originally hoping to used the distance between the crosshairs and the post for the holdover if at 400 - need to see what it actually is...
Another question - how long do you get to shoot an antelope? Is it like cows in a pastures?
I'm used to having say 3-5 seconds to get shot off. Mostly hunting crossings in thick woods - actually sit in a tree stand with my rifle on my shoulder and shooting stick the entire time I'm hunting. Not used to stuff standing around.
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That's good. Most of the videos I've watched either have em grazing for hours or all tensed up & ready to move or they run and stop, all tense.
I'm deaf so I'm not gonna be the quietest indian on the stalk.
No zero stop.
Can set the zero line for diff distances (using a screw) but no formal stop - it adjusts backwards and forwards.
Hilltop
Veteran member
Rich, Your not going to be "wrong" with a zero of 200 or 250 as long as you practice with whatever you decide. Keep in mind that your zero range will change a bit at high elevation. I have found that setting my zero at 225 at my elevation equates to zero at close to 250 yards at 8000 feet of elevation. It's a good idea to set aside at least a little time to practice once arriving at your area if possible. Above all, don't stress. Enjoy the prep time and remember that antelope are easy and fun to hunt as long as you let yourself enjoy the experience.
Horsenhike
Very Active Member
Leica ER 2.5-10x44
I'll google zero stop and see what it says.
Edit - Google says it has a zero stop. Time to learn how that works - would make life easier.
Thanks guys. Learned something new today.
Hilltop - I am enjoying the process. The preparation, knowledge, help from others is all good - promoting the anticipation of the hunt. Got a ways to go before I get there. It is easier when you and all the others help out. Thanks!
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225-250 zero would be better. It's not so much about rushing to take a shot as walking around a corner/over a saddle and there they stand at 150-175. Your adrenaline will likely kick in and your will revert to your last level of training, likely a 200 zero, hold dead center on the animal and have a good chance of shooting over with 5" midrange tragectory. All it takes a just a little shooter induced error and you shot over, seen it plenty.
pikeman1
New Member
Myself I like to sight in at 100 and dail for anything over 200. If you can't hit your target under 200 you shouldn't be hunting. Only takes me a second to dial anything to 500, after that I have to look at my cheat sheet on my stock. And a lot of turret dialers have custom turrets to make it faster. No holding over and guessing for me. Do what you are comfortable with and practice.
fackelberry
Active Member
You will be fine Rich, the wind blows 99.5% of the time here and the Antelope will see you WAY before they hear you believe me! Noise isn't a concern unless your yelling because you just put a knee and 1 palm right in the middle of prickly pear cactus! We all have done it! haha
Thankfully, we have cactus in FL, but we don't crawl around in them. They'll go through flip flops easy enough. Duct tape for pulling the spikes?
Someone told me to just walk slowly straight at them (antelope, not cactus) and they stand there a goodly amount of the time.
Someone told me to just walk slowly straight at them (antelope, not cactus) and they stand there a goodly amount of the time.
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I've carried a couple 4-5' sticks with tan duck blind material between them and used that to walk behind and sneak up on game. Known guys to use cow decoys too. But I'd be hesitant to use any animal decoy around other hunters. After the antelope get warmed up a bit, I am fairly certain walking right at them will not work worth a darn. I have known guys to walk at an angle, slowly closing distance, to get closer, but if the antelope are skittish, have my doubts there.
If you have two guys, you can cow walk in cattle country and may be able to get close. I've had that work when crossing open spots between cover, more than once.
Ok, being new to the long range hunting game would someone explain in laymans terms how to use these turrets? The scope I have came with high profile turrets and dialing in rather than holding over seems to be becoming more interesting to me. Ive checked online wit the scope and turrets I have but am finding limited information. Any help would be appreciated since its coming from someone who actually uses them and can explain in English.
JimP
Administrator
You are going to have to know what the bullet drop is at the different ranges.
Just turning the dial isn't going to help much if you don't know it.
Just turning the dial isn't going to help much if you don't know it.