Looking to Hunt the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

[Langadune]

By way of introduction... this year my friends and I are looking to go on a backcountry elk hunt. We're from Kansas, all experienced whitetail hunters, active outdoorsman, and one of our group has been on a guided elk hunt in Colorado. We know the hunt itself will be a great challenge, but that's half of the draw for us. I guess a middle-aged macho thing.

We are hoping to get the early rifle combo tags for September and have been torn between the Bob Marshal Wilderness and the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness... leaning toward the latter. Either way, we have up to two weeks of vacation already scheduled and are looking to hike in at least a few miles from the roads or trails.

That said, we won't be able to go early to scout the area so we'll be going in blind, so to speak, with maps and a GPS.
Any tips and pointers--especially places to shoot for--would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jjenness]

I would suggest bringing some horses as you will more than likely have to go pretty deep to find the elk. They open those areas early bc they are pretty tough hunts and are not your typical hike 2 or 3 miles and find an elk, not saying that it can't be done but it will be tough. If I remember right there was a good story from Anaconda Pintler about his Bob elk hunt which I believe might have been in the early season.

 

[jjenness]

Yep I just went back and read his story, he was 20 miles in when he shot his bull and had some grizzlies to deal with.

 

[Musket Man]

+1 on horses! Both are big, steep, rough country and getting an elk out with out them would be very difficult at best, never mind if you all filled tags and the weather could do anything in those areas even in september. If you really what to hunt either of them I would recommend a drop camp or guided hunt.

 

[Bitterroot Bulls]

I am with the others.

If you want to hike "at least a few miles" from the road, you will still have a few miles to go to get into the open district. Packing out an elk that distance that time of year is no quick and easy task.

I also recommend an outfitter or drop camp if you really want to hunt those districts and seasons.

If you want a DIY hunt, look into some districts with better access in the general season.

 

[hvfd21walker]

I am also with everyone else. You need horses for that country. Plus lots of Bears, Big Bears. Awesome country but very rough.

 

[Langadune]

Thanks for quick response guys. Right now, a couple of our friends are working on getting some pack llamas but no horses as yet. I'm looking into renting horses but I don't know that we can afford both riding and pack horses. We briefly considered drop camps, but it looks like the prices become prohibitive after a week and we intend to spend a full weeks.

I may be the voice of reason in the group, even in we are in good shape, there's a lot of ground to cover on foot, but money is limited.

 

[Musket Man]

Do you guys have experience with horses or hunting in a wilderness?

 

[Bitterroot Bulls]

Thanks for quick response guys. Right now, a couple of our friends are working on getting some pack llamas but no horses as yet. I'm looking into renting horses but I don't know that we can afford both riding and pack horses. We briefly considered drop camps, but it looks like the prices become prohibitive after a week and we intend to spend a full weeks.

I may be the voice of reason in the group, even in we are in good shape, there's a lot of ground to cover on foot, but money is limited.

Langadune,

I have rented horses. Renting horses is going to get as expensive as a drop camp when you get the amount of stock needed to do the trip, plus you will be responsible for transportation, feed, vet, etc.

This is still my advice:

Hunt a general district with better access. You can still have a great backcountry experience with a good shot at a bull.

or

Hire an outfitter for your backcountry hunt.

However, it sounds like you are set on attempting the early backcountry hunt. In any case I sincerely wish you the best!

 

[Langadune]

I understand your concern and I am definitely not disregarding your advice. September is the only time this year we can all get off from work together. I'm pushing for at a minimum a drop camp, at the very least, someone will be able to help us haul out our kills, if we get any.

Do you guys have experience with horses or hunting in a wilderness?

I grew up around horses. My grandfather used to raise appaloosas and I used to help quite a bit... have not had a horse around for hunting. Hunting in a wilderness, no. And I know what a major undertaking that is. We've been backpack camping in Colorado but not on a hunt.

 

[AnthonyVR]

I this on the other thread as well. There are at least 6 outfitters that operate in the Absaroka-Bearthooth wilderness area, that I know of. Together they probably run 100 guys through a year between them. According to the MT FWP harvest stats, 14 elk were harvested in 2012 in that area. That included cows and calves.

Its gorgeous country but not the most productive area in the state to harvest an elk. Access to that unit is very limited and unless you are using horses or are planning on bringing five guys or more and going home after the first elk is harvested you are probably not going to have an enjoyable hunt. The wardens in that neck of the woods take meat spoilage very seriously... However if you do decide on a hunt in that area the closer you stay to the park the more likely you are to catch a bull possibly coming out to look for cows coming into estrous that time of year.

Best of luck to you in your planning and hunt. Not to discourage you in any way from hunting in MT but Colorado has many great options as well for the budget conscious DIY hunter. They also have a muzzeloader season for elk that would fit your timeframe.

 

[buckchaser]

I am in the process of planning a similar hunt to the original poster. I have received mixed feedback with respect to how necessary horses are. Some have said horses are only necessary to access the "deep parts" of Absaroka while others have said horses are necessary to hunt any part of it.

My friend and I are extremely fit and have a lot of wilderness backpacking experience. We would limit ourselves to the distance that could be realistically covered in order to get an elk out if harvested before spoilage would occur.

My timeline is a mid to late September hunt. It's either early Montana/Idaho rifle season in the backcountry or Colorado archery elk. Personally, I'm leaning toward the Montana hunt - I know odds of success are low, but it's about much more than that for me.

Anyone who has experience travelling in the Absaroka or backpacking the Absaroka, I would appreciate hearing from you either on this thread or by personal message. All input welcome.

 

[Bitterroot Bulls]

Welcome to EF, buckchaser!

You may find it hard to get specific area information on your first post.

Stick around and join the conversation!

Perhaps I should have noted in my earlier posts that I do have experience backpacking the A-B. The early districts are "deep" in their entirety, in my opinion. If you were hunting deer, an early backpack hunt is a bit more feasable, but for elk, I really think stock is necessary. In any case, good luck on your hunt as well!

 

[buckchaser]

Thanks for the welcome. I'm from Ontario, Canada. In a bizarre twist, if I want to hunt Western elk I can't do so in the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta unless I hire a guide or know someone who can "host" me. Thus, as a Canadian my best chance to hunt Western elk is actually in Idaho, Montana, Colorado, etc.

I've been trying to track down a good map of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and the boundaries of Unit 316. I've found some decent ones on the Montana DNR website and such - but nothing great. If anyone has a link to one, would really appreciate it.

My hunting partner and I have decided to focus on the Absaroka instead of the Bob Marshall after hearing from a few sources that Absaroka is more "backpacker friendly" - although I fully understand this is a relative term!

 

[AnthonyVR]

I don't how much more "backpacker friendly" the A-B wilderness is than the Bob. The Bob has a very extensive trial system that is quite impressive and fairly well maintained IMO, at least from what I have seen. The A-B on the other hand, many of the trials are on the verge of closure due to lack of funding. Bridges are in bad shape and deadfall is quite common. If you do bring stock, make sure to pack a good saw.

 

[Langadune]

Thanks for the welcome. I'm from Ontario, Canada. In a bizarre twist, if I want to hunt Western elk I can't do so in the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta unless I hire a guide or know someone who can "host" me. Thus, as a Canadian my best chance to hunt Western elk is actually in Idaho, Montana, Colorado, etc.

I've been trying to track down a good map of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and the boundaries of Unit 316. I've found some decent ones on the Montana DNR website and such - but nothing great. If anyone has a link to one, would really appreciate it.

My hunting partner and I have decided to focus on the Absaroka instead of the Bob Marshall after hearing from a few sources that Absaroka is more "backpacker friendly" - although I fully understand this is a relative term!

This map is a pretty good tool. It can show you boundaries and districts. You can also switch between topographical and satellite views.

 

[Breshears]

I am chiming in late here, but these guys are right on, I would side with BB and drop camp or go to another district with a bow. I live near this area and these mountains are no joke. Even most of us local boys stay out of there because the effort versus the quality isn't worth it for most hunters. It can be done, and there are elk in there, so with that said, don't let us push you off. But pack your lunch, and hammer hard!

 

[Musket Man]

Mr Breshears I see you are in Ennis. I spent some time around there about 10-12 years ago. At that time in the winter you would see lots of elk wintering in the Madison valley and I saw herds of over 1000 elk many times! Is it still like that or have the wolves really taken their toll on the elk herds?

 

[Breshears]

Mr Breshears I see you are in Ennis. I spent some time around there about 10-12 years ago. At that time in the winter you would see lots of elk wintering in the Madison valley and I saw herds of over 1000 elk many times! Is it still like that or have the wolves really taken their toll on the elk herds?

Musket,
It is not the way it was, that is for sure. But there are still hundreds of elk in the flats during the winter. It's a sight to see
but over the past 5 years I can see a very noticeable change in the numbers of elk on the wintering ground. Not to mention, 5 years ago we could take the kids over to the foothills in September on a private ranch and have 400 plus head feed out into the alfalfa in full rut. It was quite the experience! but now adays that same herd is hard to find and when you do, they are usually only 60-100 strong. Times are changing! gotta keep on them wolves.

 

[Musket Man]

Thanks for the update! I was worried it would not still be how it used to be. It was definitely an incredible a sight to see that many elk together!!! I used to see them down closer to Cameron. Had a friend that their dad lived just south of Cameron and I went there a few times.