300 wsm loads

[theddguide]

Well I just had to come try it. Went an 1/8 in further still stiff. Into 1/2 a turn total and so far 8 rounds chamber nicely. The manual for the dies don't mention going past 1/4 or whether it's for bumping the shoulder or full length. Can i assume I'll be ok sizing them that far if an 1/8 turn less was still stiff?

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[theddguide]

They're all under min length, I was sure to check that

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[JimP]

Needed to see a picture of where the die is contacting the shell holder when the ram in in the up position.

But other than that as long as the cases are clambering you should be good to go.

When I am sizing all of my rifle cases I usually just bump the shoulder back a little. I will try a case in its rifle after each 1/8 of a turn of the die. I continue doing this until there is just slight resistance closing the bolt. I'll then lock the die down. I also use cases that have already been fired in that rifle.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Sound like your good to go

 

[mallardsx2]

OP

Are you saying your going a full half turn after you have contacted your shell plate without a case in it?

Isn't it tighter than a tiger when you cam the handle over?

I had to go to 1/8 past contact to get my rounds to chamber and to bump the shoulder back .002 off the shoulders on my Browning A-bolt. I'm wondering if these 300WSM dont grow like the other shells I have shot.

Compared to a factory shell my bump gauge only shows .001 difference from factory shells. So I wonder if I should just be full resizing to factory and leaving it at that just so I never have any issues.

I have shot my loads and honestly they shot just as good as factory. Rightfully so, they are basically the same exact load.

Now onto the BOSS to dial things in. I should have enough shells reloaded for that gun for the rest of my life at this point.

Amazing how much cheaper it is to reload 300 WSM shells.

 

[theddguide]

OP

Are you saying your going a full half turn after you have contacted your shell plate without a case in it?

Isn't it tighter than a tiger when you cam the handle over?

I had to go to 1/8 past contact to get my rounds to chamber and to bump the shoulder back .002 off the shoulders on my Browning A-bolt. I'm wondering if these 300WSM dont grow like the other shells I have shot.

Compared to a factory shell my bump gauge only shows .001 difference from factory shells. So I wonder if I should just be full resizing to factory and leaving it at that just so I never have any issues.

I have shot my loads and honestly they shot just as good as factory. Rightfully so, they are basically the same exact load.

Now onto the BOSS to dial things in. I should have enough shells reloaded for that gun for the rest of my life at this point.

Amazing how much cheaper it is to reload 300 WSM shells.

Yes 1/2 turn in after it is screwed down to the shell holder in the up position.

As far as camming over, I'm not even sure that it does. At the bottom of the stroke I feel what I think is the case being sized by the press and at the very end the end of mt handle touches the front of my table. I had to extend the handle all the way for it to work the way it has been.

Should I remove a section of the front board on my table to allow it to go farther? Is it necessary? I haven't run into this issue at all with my 308 and 270 but I also started with new brass in them.

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[mallardsx2]

I'm not the master of reloading but I would think you would want full travel of a handle and not something getting in the way of it.
Are you using a lee press? Or Hornady? It looks like a locknload.

Someone else would have to chime in on this.

I got a rockchucker and I'm new to reloading rifle shells compared to a lot of these guys.

My process is:

-Clean brass
-Raise handle all the way up with proper shell holder.
-screw die down until contact is made with shell plate
-back out die 1/2 turn
-Start moving die in 1/8 turn until I get my shoulder bumped back to where the bolt closes freely (typically .002 according to my research)
-clean primer pockets and de-bur flash hole.
-Full length uniform Trim cases
-Stuff the goodies back in the shell

BOOM.

 

[theddguide]

I'm not the master of reloading but I would think you would want full travel of a handle and not something getting in the way of it.
Are you using a lee press? Or Hornady? It looks like a locknload.

Someone else would have to chime in on this.

I got a rockchucker and I'm new to reloading rifle shells compared to a lot of these guys.

My process is:

-Clean brass
-Raise handle all the way up with proper shell holder.
-screw die down until contact is made with shell plate
-back out die 1/2 turn
-Start moving die in 1.8 turn until I get my shoulder bumped back to where the bolt closes freely (typically .002 according to my research)
-clean primer pockets and de-bur flash hole.
-Full length uniform Trim cases
-Stuff the goodies back in the shell

BOOM.

It's a Lee. Pretty much the same process here.

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[wy-tex]

I load 66 gr of H 4350 for my 165-168 gr bonded bullets. It's been my load for years.
Are you bumping the shoulder too far on your brass. I had that issue when I first started reloading. Check your die settings to make sure you're not bumping that shoulder down and affecting the angle and diameter on the brass.

 

[theddguide]

Shot these two different groups the other day. By far the best I've got with this rifle. Aside from these it's been kind of shooting all over the place. So, I replaced the moa trigger this morning with a timney. Boy, what a difference! Cant wait to try it out at the range, don't see how it won't help my shooting be more consistent.

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[theddguide]

And before someone asks, I turned the target around and clicked the scope up a few so the groups would be spread out more. It was the only target I had that day lol.

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[theddguide]

These were with 64.5 (3 shot group) and 65g h4350 with 180 accubonds at about 2985fps

Set the etips aside for now as I wasn't getting consistent results, thus the reason/ want for the new trigger.

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[graybird]

You need to invest in a set of these to ensure you are not bumping the shoulder back too much.

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/precision-measuring/precision-tools-and-gauges/headspace-comparator-anvil-base-kit#!/