Rangefinder recommendations?

ErikHimmel

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Nov 28, 2019
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rangerexpert.com
I have a 1000yd rangefinder, but it isn't a very high end one. I think I paid about $240 at Bass Pro, which means it should have probably been a $200 rangefinder new. Im planning to use it rifle elk hunting out west, and Im not sure if its up to par. Anyone know if it is? And if not, can you recommend one <$500? Thanks
 

RICMIC

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Feb 21, 2012
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Two Harbors, Minnesota
I have a 1000yd rangefinder, but it isn't a very high end one. I think I paid about $240 at Bass Pro, which means it should have probably been a $200 rangefinder new. Im planning to use it rifle elk hunting out west, and Im not sure if its up to par. Anyone know if it is? And if not, can you recommend one <$500? Thanks
Erik: You didn't ID the rangefinder that you bought, but since you already have it, I suggest that you spend some time with it outdoors and see what its capabilities are. The subject has been covered a lot on this forum, and I suggest that you slide down to the equipment/gear section and scroll thru past posts. RFs have been advancing their technology rapidly in the last few years, and you can spend a great deal of $ for something that you may not really need. The "Range" listed for each RF is usually in ideal conditions with a reflective target. Like on a clear day, a metal building with no obstructions in-between.
I am on my 4th RF, but that is over a 20 year period. My current one is a Luepold RX1000TBR. The TBR stands for True Ballistic Range", and other mfg. call it "Angle Range Compensation" or something similar. Hunting in steep terrain, or bow hunting from a stand, you will find this to be a real benefit. I have been totally satisfied with this RF, and can usually range over 700 yds. unless it is foggy, snowing, etc. The exception was on a late season cow hunt this Jan. in WY. It was pure white, and though clear, I couldn't range anything until mid-day. I was finally able to range a big rock next to the elk I shot at 460 yards. Good luck
 

memtb

Active Member
It’s a good thing to ask questions. Being a “poor boy”, several years ago I bought a used “name brand” 1200 yard range finder. While it seems to be of good quality.....two issues immediately surfaced. The readout is quite small and is “red” in color. I’m colorblind (especially with reds,greens, browns) and can’t read the value, except in optimum conditions. So.....my wife has a nice rangefinder! memtb
 

kidoggy

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also depends how far you are comfortable shooting.


I have a vortex Ranger 1300.it will only range game about half that distance but will range large landmarks such as rock outcroppings.
I have no intention of trying to shoot an animal further then 400 yards or so and seldom further then 100 yards . so this setup is plenty sufficient for me . probly would not be for the sniper hunters .
 
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JimP

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The other thing with a range finder and shooting at distances is do you know the ballistics of the round that you are shooting and or do you have a dial on your scope to adjust for longer ranges? Knowing that a animal is 600 yards away does no good if you can't shoot accurately to that range. Most bullets out of most rifles are going to be dropping 48"+ at that range

I would just stick with the range finder that you have now. Take it out for a walk around a park and range a tree, bush, car, or whatever else is out there and then pace off the distance to check. Even Bass Pro rangefinders will work quite well out west here if you do you job and learn how to shoot at the further ranges.
 
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kidoggy

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I agree with jimp………. practice ranging things when you are not hunting . it will help you get comfortable judging distances ,so when actually hunting you won't need to rely so heavily upon electronics that often fail when needed the most.
 

memtb

Active Member
Erik, We also have an older, inexpensive Bushnel that works just fine on “non-reflective” surfaces to a pretty good ways ....450 or so yards. As others have mentioned, learning to judge distances. With a lot of practice, whether while on a fitness walk, or at work (I used both)....you can can eventually get pretty good to 300 to 400 yards on larger game. With a flat shooting rifle and a longer zero on your rifle ( we zero @ 300 yards.....which many people oppose), and your ability to “guesstimate” your ranges.....you can easily “ hold on hair” to 400 yards on big game. With quite a few years of using a rangefinder, I’ve actually used it only once to make a shot. All of the other ranged animals only showed that they were beyond my self-imposed limit of 600 yards on game! memtb
 
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Slugz

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Erik, We also have an older, inexpensive Bushnel that works just fine on “non-reflective” surfaces to a pretty good ways ....450 or so yards. As others have mentioned, learning to judge distances. With a lot of practice, whether while on a fitness walk, or at work (I used both)....you can can eventually get pretty good to 300 to 400 yards on larger game. With a flat shooting rifle and a longer zero on your rifle ( we zero @ 300 yards.....which many people oppose), and your ability to “guesstimate” your ranges.....you can easily “ hold on hair” to 400 yards on big game. With quite a few years of using a rangefinder, I’ve actually used it only once to make a shot. All of the other ranged animals only showed that they were beyond my self-imposed limit of 600 yards on game! memtb
Gonna make me relook at the load im making for my custom 280 AI now. I was also messing with my zero yardage as the intent was a hold on out to 400 rifle.
 

JimP

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Slugs, you need to play around with a ballistics program with different zero yardage. Then look at the + and - at ranges from 50 yards out as far as you intend to shoot to make the right decision for your zero
 
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Ikeepitcold

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I have the Sig 2400 and love it.
I would suggest selling the one you have and add that to your $500 and get a great range finder.
 

memtb

Active Member
Gonna make me relook at the load im making for my custom 280 AI now. I was also messing with my zero yardage as the intent was a hold on out to 400 rifle.

IMO, the only “potential “ drawback” to our zero method......is that (for our rifles) we will be approximately 6” high at around 180 yards. If you decide to shoot a Fox/coyote, ect., at around your “trajectory peak”, you will likely overshoot a small animal. Many folks initially have a problem with “holding” a bit low for those close shots ( 150-200 yards) on small animals. For big game......it’s pretty much a non-issue! If you use this “zero method” exclusively, it will become “second nature”. We’ve been using the 300 yard zero for about 20 to 25 years. For us.......”if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”! memtb
 
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JimP

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Not to muddle up this thread but I did a quick check with a ballistic program and here is what I got for a 280AI with a 300 yard zero:

bullet Barnes 145g LRX Bt
Velocity 3124
Altitude 6000'
Temp. 50F

100 yards +3.1
175 yards +4
300 yards 0
400 yards -8.7
500 yards -23.1
 

memtb

Active Member
Not to muddle up this thread but I did a quick check with a ballistic program and here is what I got for a 280AI with a 300 yard zero:

bullet Barnes 145g LRX Bt
Velocity 3124
Altitude 6000'
Temp. 50F

100 yards +3.1
175 yards +4
300 yards 0
400 yards -8.7
500 yards -23.1


Thanks Jim, those numbers give even more justification for our “zero method”! That’s a bit flatter than our rifles are capable of! If you fail to put the bullet in a kill zone on a big game animal, with “only” 4” variance.....there are other , “bigger” issues in play! ;) memtb
 

JimP

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I should of also clarified that I picked one of the best long range hunting bullets along with the max velocity for that bullet out of the loading manual.

So actual results will vary and as always shoot your rifle and load at the ranges that you plan on shooting a game animal at and record the results for some real time ballistics.
 
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