? On Initial Evals of a Rifle/Build

[Prerylyon]

My rebored Savage 110E barreled action came back the other day; visually everything looks good, test firing report from the gunsmith looks good.

So, now begins the work of dropping it back in the stock, mounting a scope, deciding what/if any bedding is needed, and also working up a load for it; not necessarily in that order ( ? ) There's a few things going on there to keep track of! lol

This will be my 1st 'DIY customization'; so my question deals with what my first steps should be from where I am now with it?

With a store bought rifle, I probably would buy a box of factory ammo and head to range, once I got a scope I installed on it (a can of worms in and of itself) and see what it was printing for groups. Or, could I reload a starting load, and just use that to start to get an idea of what may or may not need to be done next?

 

[JimP]

On the ammo it is any way that you want to go.

My last rifle that I purchased was my 25-06, with it I picked up one box of ammo. Once I had the scope mounted I took it to the range and fired exactly 9 shots of that factory ammo to sight the scope in. Ever since then I have ran nothing but hand loads through it. It was nice to see what those factory round would do and I was quite impressed at their accuracy. But my hand loads are even better.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Before you start shooting, tell me about the stock. You re-barreled the action. Is the new barrel the same outside diameter and contour as the original? Is the stock glass bedded? I would glass bed the action and float the barrel before you do any shooting.

I am assuming that the action is already drilled & tapped for a scope. Reinstall the scope remembering to use blue loctite on the screws. Once you get everything back together, bore sight it. I always start at 25 yds so you can get all shots on the paper, saves ammunition.

What caliber is it?

 

[Prerylyon]

'CC,

Barrel was re-bored from 30-06 to 35 Whelen; gunsmith set the correct head space; test fired it, and sent it back; contour is the same as the original 'sacrificial' gun. It was a bargain Savage 110E I got cheap in good condition, so I decided to try reboring it, and converting to 35 Whelen, instead of dropping a lot of coin on a straight-up 35 Whelen. I couldn't find anything under $1500 that I liked, so figured I would try this way, as a cheap learning experience. I don't have much $ in it, however it turns out.

To answer your questions:

Stock: walnut, Savage 110E, maybe a tad nicer grade? No glass bedding or epoxy to be seen

Barrel: same outside diameter and contour as original

Caliber: 35 Whelen

Action is drilled and tapped for a scope

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

I would definitely glass bed it. The .35 will probably shoot heavier bullets and have more recoil. The glass bedding will strengthen the stock and provide more stability.

 

[Prerylyon]

For bedding compound, what do most guys use? Seems like there are Acraglass and Devcon camps.

 

[Colorado Cowboy]

Either are fine. I generally use Acraglass. I also use JB Weld when I want strength. If the wood is soft or has a defect, I use it. Make sure you are liberal in the use of the release compound.

 

[BuzzH]

For bedding compound, what do most guys use? Seems like there are Acraglass and Devcon camps.

Steelbed is what I've used.

As Colorado Cowboy said, don't skimp on the release agent, I use one shot and a wax on any threads.

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